Shock waves - and a request
The effect of the powerful earthquake next to Taiwan could be felt here too. Apparently Taiwan is a major hub for Internet communication. As a result, Internet cafes' became more empty than ...
Please help poor Shachar complete his sentence, as the lack of sleep made him totally incompetence at this late hour of the day, 21:15.
Friday, December 29, 2006
Arriving to Luang Prabang
After spending almost two weeks in villages and really small towns, arriving to Luang Prabang seemed like arriving to Bangkok again. Many tourists crowding the streets, fancy places to eat, higher prices and even Western pubs. A close by airport makes the city reachable for tourists other than backpackers.
After spending almost two weeks in villages and really small towns, arriving to Luang Prabang seemed like arriving to Bangkok again. Many tourists crowding the streets, fancy places to eat, higher prices and even Western pubs. A close by airport makes the city reachable for tourists other than backpackers.
Holiday season
Merry Christmas everyone! Yes, tons of Europeans in the streets and, even worse, at the guest houses, making finding an available room quite a task. On the other hand, when I was in Muang Ngoi, freezing with the rest, one tourist had a package from her mom for Christmas with a piece of a Christmas tree and some sweets, that she shared with the rest of us. It was a nice experience, modest and to the point.
And here comes new year...
Merry Christmas everyone! Yes, tons of Europeans in the streets and, even worse, at the guest houses, making finding an available room quite a task. On the other hand, when I was in Muang Ngoi, freezing with the rest, one tourist had a package from her mom for Christmas with a piece of a Christmas tree and some sweets, that she shared with the rest of us. It was a nice experience, modest and to the point.
And here comes new year...
Wedding season
Everywhere in Laos everyone seems to be getting married. I guess the cool and dry season is the best time for it. Weddings are usually a two days affair. In Moang Ngoi Nuea and in one of the villages next to it, weddings seem to be a loud affair. They are usually accompanied by a big set of speakers and a really bad singer and stand up comedian(?) everyone tends to ignore. Dancing is very simple, involving mostly hand movement and stepping in a circle. In Muang Ngoi it was nice, as huge amounts of people participated. Many tourists complained of the noise, but once it was gone, the village seemed to be a sadder place at night.
Everywhere in Laos everyone seems to be getting married. I guess the cool and dry season is the best time for it. Weddings are usually a two days affair. In Moang Ngoi Nuea and in one of the villages next to it, weddings seem to be a loud affair. They are usually accompanied by a big set of speakers and a really bad singer and stand up comedian(?) everyone tends to ignore. Dancing is very simple, involving mostly hand movement and stepping in a circle. In Muang Ngoi it was nice, as huge amounts of people participated. Many tourists complained of the noise, but once it was gone, the village seemed to be a sadder place at night.
Winter season
They call this time of the year the cool and dry season, because the weather is much more comfortable. Yeah right. Comfortable until you head North and then freeze. Everywhere I went I froze my majestic bum. I didn't sleep too well and skimped on cold showers, that are not that easy on a slightly warm day. At least now in Luang Prabang the weather is more comfortable, and also the temperature seems to go up a bit.
On a more serious note, I knew what I was heading for. Nevertheless, when we went trekking from Luang Nam Tha, the places where we slept at night were not adequately equipped and we barely managed to have a good night sleep. The positive sides are the lack of mosquitoes, the lack of rain and that I can use the same clothes for a week straight cause I don't sweat. On the other hand, maybe I shouldn't have written that.
They call this time of the year the cool and dry season, because the weather is much more comfortable. Yeah right. Comfortable until you head North and then freeze. Everywhere I went I froze my majestic bum. I didn't sleep too well and skimped on cold showers, that are not that easy on a slightly warm day. At least now in Luang Prabang the weather is more comfortable, and also the temperature seems to go up a bit.
On a more serious note, I knew what I was heading for. Nevertheless, when we went trekking from Luang Nam Tha, the places where we slept at night were not adequately equipped and we barely managed to have a good night sleep. The positive sides are the lack of mosquitoes, the lack of rain and that I can use the same clothes for a week straight cause I don't sweat. On the other hand, maybe I shouldn't have written that.
Sunday, December 17, 2006
Sandals, flip flops and the toes between
Yet another equipment tip
I took Source Vagabond sandals with me. The problem is that they are quite heavy and take time to dry. Someone back home recommended me to take Crocs with me instead (and I didn't listen). I needed somewhere more practical to wear for showers, so I had to buy flip flops here. You still need sandals for hot regions and for water activities. If you have no problem with the Crocs phenomenon or the Crocs themselves, it seems like the best option for me.
Yet another equipment tip
I took Source Vagabond sandals with me. The problem is that they are quite heavy and take time to dry. Someone back home recommended me to take Crocs with me instead (and I didn't listen). I needed somewhere more practical to wear for showers, so I had to buy flip flops here. You still need sandals for hot regions and for water activities. If you have no problem with the Crocs phenomenon or the Crocs themselves, it seems like the best option for me.
Recommend place to stay and eat in Chiang Mai: Grace house. The staff doesn't speak English too well, the manager tries to do a thousand things at the same time, but there is healthy food around (Whole wheat, oat, etc.) and Indian food, if you really can't live without. The room is not perfect, the food is not the cheapest (nor the most expensive) but I really liked the place and the area.
It is on Soi 9, off Moon Muang road.
It is on Soi 9, off Moon Muang road.
Oh my Buddha!
A story from Thailand I didn't write yet. On the 12th of December I went trekking for three days in the Doi (Moutain) Inthanon natural reserve. The advertisements look promising: "Come with us for elephant riding, bamboo rafting and observe the authentic long-neck, big ears, huge teeth and longed nose original hill-tribe in a non-touristic region" (Exaggerated a bit for creating an interesting story telling atmosphere). I was sceptical, but after receiving recommendations from a famous world traveler, I booked the trek.
We were five people on the first day, three on the second and four on the last. Interesting, huh? Each company has several trekking options for each area, which differ by the number of days and activities involved (kayaking, hiking, and more). Therefore they mix and match the participants, sharing one guide as much as possible.
The bottom line is that I really liked the whole thing. The elephant riding was very nice, as I've never done it before. Yes, it does feel like a Disney ride, but the poor elephant is amazing! It is huge! Even a model human specimen like me looked small compared to it (Exaggerated a bit too, just a bit, really).
The trekking itself was very interesting. Walking in the jungle was different from walking in Nepal nature. We had some pretty narrow paths to cross, sometimes blocked by spider webs. We stopped by waterfalls and small ponds to swim in ice cold water. The good thing is that once you get out it is warm. Nights were pretty cold though.
Our guide on the first day was Mr. Shawn. He was fine but took the whole tourist-buying-souvenirs thing a little bit too much. He also made us play a simple card game, resulting in coal painted tourists. The next two days we were accompanied with Mr. Paul. A funny young guy, with an accent I found myself using. The difference from Nepal's guides was obvious: The dude was wearing fashionable jeans, belt and sunglasses for the trek! He was kidding a lot and made the trek more enjoyable. He gave us riddles with sticks on the second night (No coal).
The trip was finished with bamboo rafting. I looked forward to a leisure ride, but there were actually rapids! And we were supposed to pass them with a few pieces of wood strapped together?? It was fun, the raft didn't break and all the soldiers arrived home safely Captain!
A story from Thailand I didn't write yet. On the 12th of December I went trekking for three days in the Doi (Moutain) Inthanon natural reserve. The advertisements look promising: "Come with us for elephant riding, bamboo rafting and observe the authentic long-neck, big ears, huge teeth and longed nose original hill-tribe in a non-touristic region" (Exaggerated a bit for creating an interesting story telling atmosphere). I was sceptical, but after receiving recommendations from a famous world traveler, I booked the trek.
We were five people on the first day, three on the second and four on the last. Interesting, huh? Each company has several trekking options for each area, which differ by the number of days and activities involved (kayaking, hiking, and more). Therefore they mix and match the participants, sharing one guide as much as possible.
The bottom line is that I really liked the whole thing. The elephant riding was very nice, as I've never done it before. Yes, it does feel like a Disney ride, but the poor elephant is amazing! It is huge! Even a model human specimen like me looked small compared to it (Exaggerated a bit too, just a bit, really).
The trekking itself was very interesting. Walking in the jungle was different from walking in Nepal nature. We had some pretty narrow paths to cross, sometimes blocked by spider webs. We stopped by waterfalls and small ponds to swim in ice cold water. The good thing is that once you get out it is warm. Nights were pretty cold though.
Our guide on the first day was Mr. Shawn. He was fine but took the whole tourist-buying-souvenirs thing a little bit too much. He also made us play a simple card game, resulting in coal painted tourists. The next two days we were accompanied with Mr. Paul. A funny young guy, with an accent I found myself using. The difference from Nepal's guides was obvious: The dude was wearing fashionable jeans, belt and sunglasses for the trek! He was kidding a lot and made the trek more enjoyable. He gave us riddles with sticks on the second night (No coal).
The trip was finished with bamboo rafting. I looked forward to a leisure ride, but there were actually rapids! And we were supposed to pass them with a few pieces of wood strapped together?? It was fun, the raft didn't break and all the soldiers arrived home safely Captain!
Saturday, December 16, 2006
The Israeli phenomenon
Yes, it is about time I write something about us.
First of all, I heard more than once from other travellers that it seems that half the country is travelling in Asia. I see it as a good characteristic for us, opposite to people who never leave their country. On the other hand, maybe we are so loud so there is no other choice but to notice us.
On the way from Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong we had a stop for lunch. The question of my origin arrived sooner or later. Israeli tourists usually recognize me because of my looks. Locals who need to sell usually recognize me because it is their job. Other tourists have a problem some time, as my accent usually doesn't have the common Israeli accent to it. So I said I was from Israel. The next thing mentioned was the army, which led some guy to throw something about "killing Palestinians". It was annoying for the first moments, but yes, some people hate us, for many reasons, and not necessarily will listen.
On that evening, I scheduled dinner with Christa. When I arrived she was already sitting for a while with the company of people from our ride to Chiang Khong. After they left, she told me that guy told her that he had so many bad experiences with Israelis that he decided not to talk with them. He asked her how on earth she was able to travel with one. She agreed with him about Israeli. Her exposure to Israelis taught her that we are rude, thinking the whole world belongs to us, therefore behaving very bad to service people (I witnessed this terrible behaviour too and I agree on that). But she said she was still open enough to give people a chance, and not close up as this guy did.
Yes, it is about time I write something about us.
First of all, I heard more than once from other travellers that it seems that half the country is travelling in Asia. I see it as a good characteristic for us, opposite to people who never leave their country. On the other hand, maybe we are so loud so there is no other choice but to notice us.
On the way from Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong we had a stop for lunch. The question of my origin arrived sooner or later. Israeli tourists usually recognize me because of my looks. Locals who need to sell usually recognize me because it is their job. Other tourists have a problem some time, as my accent usually doesn't have the common Israeli accent to it. So I said I was from Israel. The next thing mentioned was the army, which led some guy to throw something about "killing Palestinians". It was annoying for the first moments, but yes, some people hate us, for many reasons, and not necessarily will listen.
On that evening, I scheduled dinner with Christa. When I arrived she was already sitting for a while with the company of people from our ride to Chiang Khong. After they left, she told me that guy told her that he had so many bad experiences with Israelis that he decided not to talk with them. He asked her how on earth she was able to travel with one. She agreed with him about Israeli. Her exposure to Israelis taught her that we are rude, thinking the whole world belongs to us, therefore behaving very bad to service people (I witnessed this terrible behaviour too and I agree on that). But she said she was still open enough to give people a chance, and not close up as this guy did.
Huay Xai to Luang Nam Tha
Today I took the "bus" to Luang Nam Tha. The "road" is one big sandy, dusty trail, probably passable only by 4x4 cars and trucks. The only settlements on the way were small villages, with houses made from wood, lots of pigs, chicken, dogs and small children. Part of the "road" was wide but other parts were quite narrow.
The good (also bad) news is that the whole road is one big construction site. It looks like tons of explosives were used to make a path through the jungle. Many Caterpiller vehicles (forgot the words...) dig, pave and prepare the new road. At one point we had to stop because some construction workers dug a hole in the road. Luckily, one construction vehicle made an alternative route for us to pass.
Once we got close to Luang Nam Tha, a brand new road, including sign posts, was waiting for us.
Transportation and communication changed the world. They already have cellphones. I'm certain that this new road will change this area forever.
Now I'm off to the shower to remove about a kilo of dust from myself.
Today I took the "bus" to Luang Nam Tha. The "road" is one big sandy, dusty trail, probably passable only by 4x4 cars and trucks. The only settlements on the way were small villages, with houses made from wood, lots of pigs, chicken, dogs and small children. Part of the "road" was wide but other parts were quite narrow.
The good (also bad) news is that the whole road is one big construction site. It looks like tons of explosives were used to make a path through the jungle. Many Caterpiller vehicles (forgot the words...) dig, pave and prepare the new road. At one point we had to stop because some construction workers dug a hole in the road. Luckily, one construction vehicle made an alternative route for us to pass.
Once we got close to Luang Nam Tha, a brand new road, including sign posts, was waiting for us.
Transportation and communication changed the world. They already have cellphones. I'm certain that this new road will change this area forever.
Now I'm off to the shower to remove about a kilo of dust from myself.
Recommended guest house in Loang Nam Tha, Laos: Zuela.
Brand new place, but already two Israelis managed to spread our good reputation there by smoking Opium and making noise during part of the night.
Update: I talked with the hotel's manager, which gave a different version. The smoking part was true, but she said that they were very nice.
Brand new place, but already two Israelis managed to spread our good reputation there by smoking Opium and making noise during part of the night.
Update: I talked with the hotel's manager, which gave a different version. The smoking part was true, but she said that they were very nice.
Tempting offers
A famous world traveller once said: "anyway, worse thing - you get screwed and you move on.. it's part of travelling (you get to be fucked on daily basis in India)"
When we arrived to Huay Xai we looked for a bus to Luang Nam Tha. We read that the road to Luang Nam Tha was one of the worst, and that the only option to go there is by a public bus (I'm not sure about the boat option). Prepared to face this rough but adventurous option, one travel agency caught us with the possibility to go by a private mini-van for the same price. Tempted by the alternative, we bought our ticket from that agency. The next morning the mini-van was "broken", but we were promised that we will be taken "free" to the bus station and go on a public bus from there. Well, that was what we originally expected, so it was fine with us. (Another Israeli couple just got their money back and went on their own). When the taxi driver dropped us off, it wasn't at the bus station at all. He said that he arranged us a "better" ride to go there.
And so we went to Loang Nam Tha with a truck/bus used to deliver motorcycles to our destination. We were just extra "goods" for delivery and so some people made more money from this fact. But we had a pleasant journey, with a full seat for each person (we were four and one or two people picked up on the way). It was quite fast and comfortable, even more than the mini-van taking us from Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong in Thailand
A famous world traveller once said: "anyway, worse thing - you get screwed and you move on.. it's part of travelling (you get to be fucked on daily basis in India)"
When we arrived to Huay Xai we looked for a bus to Luang Nam Tha. We read that the road to Luang Nam Tha was one of the worst, and that the only option to go there is by a public bus (I'm not sure about the boat option). Prepared to face this rough but adventurous option, one travel agency caught us with the possibility to go by a private mini-van for the same price. Tempted by the alternative, we bought our ticket from that agency. The next morning the mini-van was "broken", but we were promised that we will be taken "free" to the bus station and go on a public bus from there. Well, that was what we originally expected, so it was fine with us. (Another Israeli couple just got their money back and went on their own). When the taxi driver dropped us off, it wasn't at the bus station at all. He said that he arranged us a "better" ride to go there.
And so we went to Loang Nam Tha with a truck/bus used to deliver motorcycles to our destination. We were just extra "goods" for delivery and so some people made more money from this fact. But we had a pleasant journey, with a full seat for each person (we were four and one or two people picked up on the way). It was quite fast and comfortable, even more than the mini-van taking us from Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong in Thailand
Crossing to Laos
Yesterday we (Christa and I) crossed the border to Laos. It was much quicker than I imagined. On the Thai border I said goodbye to my Thailand visa. Then we took a small boat across the Mekong river and after two minutes we were in Laos, in Huay Xai. After changing money I received 960000 kip for 100USD in bills of 10000kip. Too much notes to carry around.
Huay Xai is just two minutes by boat from Thailand, but totally different and yet the same. The road was being paved as we arrived. The houses are from plain wood and look very primitive. On the other hand, similarities exist both in food and language, which makes the transition not so hard. Back to the first hand, I realized I ate as if I'm in Thailand, not being careful about hygiene, which might be completely different.
I went to the Internet cafe in Huay Xai, the only one. The place had one computer connected with a dial-up modem...
Yesterday we (Christa and I) crossed the border to Laos. It was much quicker than I imagined. On the Thai border I said goodbye to my Thailand visa. Then we took a small boat across the Mekong river and after two minutes we were in Laos, in Huay Xai. After changing money I received 960000 kip for 100USD in bills of 10000kip. Too much notes to carry around.
Huay Xai is just two minutes by boat from Thailand, but totally different and yet the same. The road was being paved as we arrived. The houses are from plain wood and look very primitive. On the other hand, similarities exist both in food and language, which makes the transition not so hard. Back to the first hand, I realized I ate as if I'm in Thailand, not being careful about hygiene, which might be completely different.
I went to the Internet cafe in Huay Xai, the only one. The place had one computer connected with a dial-up modem...
Thursday, December 14, 2006
Tips and more
My reply to my friend Carine was quite long and kind of a partial summary for me. So here goes:
The Annapurna Circuit trek, the 20 days version (not the 16). I went to Ghorapani in order to climb Poon Hill and see the Annapurna range (the best view) and finished at a place I don't remember right now. The other option is to finish at Beni. Also remember you might need buffer days if something goes wrong, you need a rest or some place is very nice (such as... damn, forgot!)
Around Pokhara:
I went rafting for three days on the Kali Gandaki river.
I went to Sarangkot before sunrise to see the Annapurna range from another angle. The best views were of the valleys as I've seen the Annapurna range quite a lot. I went back walking, lost the trail, which resulted in interesting experiences along the way. So try to get lost there. You know you need to reach the lakeside and you see it in view all the time.
I went to Devi's falls, missing the entry to its underground parts, which made it quite boring. From there I walked up to the World Peace Pagoda and climbed down the other side, finishing with a kayak ride back to Pokhara.
I went out to the busy bee, the only place which is open late enough.
I rested a lot at the Boomerang restaurant. I'm not sure if their food is good or cheap, but
By the way, now it is mandatory to go trekking with a porter or a guide. I recommend a porter anyhow. Meet him before you go trekking. Ask him if he has good equipment. Chat with him to see how good he knows English, which will contribute a lot to your enjoyment along the trek. My porter knew Hebrew very well too.
Around Kathmandu:
I went to Swayambunath (The monkey temple).
I went to Nagarkot to see the sunrise yet again. The good thing here is that you can see the sunrise from your window and not climb 40 minutes in the darkness. The bad thing is that you can see the sunrise from your window and not climb 40 minutes in a full moon lit sky. Then I tried to walk to Bhaktapur by foot, took a shortcut, which made me lose the trail and end up in a local bus, where I couldn't stand straight. But it was fun (= somewhat scary). I stayed in Bhaktapur for five days, not that you actually need it to see everything around. I just preferred waiting for my flight there.
I went out to G's Terrace, Fullmoon and Lhasa.
Additional things that other people did while I was resting:
The Chitwan national park.
The Langtang trek (a.k.a. The frozen lakes)
Tips:
- When you arrive to Nepal ask for a 60 days visa. For me it cost the same as the 30 days visa. And you might spend 20 days or more on the mountains...
- Try to minimize the amount of time you stay at big cities at first. If you have the option, go out of the city. Escaping Kathmandu to Pokhara was a very good idea. When I came back, it was much easier and even fun!
- Listen to yourself. For the first time you don't have to do everything. If you rather spend the whole day reading, resting, listening the music, do that. Some people hurry up from place to place. If it suits you fine it is OK, but don't do things because you have to. For me it was and still hard, but I get over it. There is always something to see. And the rest will be left for next time.
- Nothing is for free. If someone offers you something for free, it is a scam. You are going to pay, big time. If someone offers you a service, tell them thank you and be assertive about it.
- Don't trek alone with a guide/porter, especially a male guide/porter. First of all, it is always nice to trek with someone, and you don't have to be together the whole day. I used to run forward in the mornings, especially uphill. So I had time to stop whenever I wanted and think/day dream. In the afternoons I used to slow down and join other people for chats. Second, they have their idea of Western women and you are not going to change that. It is mostly because of the movies they see and because some tourists don't bother being informed about a country and its local customs, such as dressing modestly. Oh yeah, local people do take showers at the streets, but that's because they don't have running water at home. And they do it very modest, with their clothes on.
- Helping beggars and the rest. If you seriously want to help, go to the source. Volunteer, buy things for schools, but don't give them money, pens, sweets or balloons. If you buy a meal for one, then more will come, and you are just one person, not a charity organization. You just encourage them to leave whatever useful thing they might do and beg for money.
- Haggai's advice: Acquire late, release early ;-) Try to reasonably delay things until you are sure about them. That way you can leave your options open. Again, always do what's comfortable for you. One example: I bought the huge Lonely Planet India book in the airport back home and I'm not going to use it for following months for sure.
- Do the longest things first, then fill in the rest. The Annapurna circuit trek is a long one and will take a lot of your time.
Equipment, etc. tips
- After my first week in Kathmandu I bought the Lonely Planet book of Nepal. It helped me tremendously. It is very up to date, September 2006, so it helped me get the real value of services. You can also do it on your own, trial and error. It cost me two thirds the price in Israel and I could get back half of it when I returned it (which I didn't).
- You can buy many things in Nepal, Kathmandu and Pokhara. I think I said goodbye to 100$ there just on equipment. I bought walking poles, rain coat (poncho), a serious coat (forgot the name), shrinkage bag, a lock for my bag (I use it more to feel safe that no one messes with my bag while I tie my shoe laces and the likes), a drinking bottle, carbines and I don't remember what else. Just remember that the fact that everyone in Nepal, even the poorest farmer, wears a "The North Face" fleece jacket probably means something. Check the quality with all your senses. Sometimes they can be better than the original and sometimes pretty bad. If you don't want to compromise, there is a real North Face shop in front of the "Fire and Ice" restaurant in Kathmandu. You'll know you got there when you'll see the prices just added a digit or two. It is cheaper than Israel, even half (I could have bought so many things there if I wouldn't have to carry it all), but they might not have your size. (saved me 200NIS :-) ). About sending things home, it is not that cheap. But over weight is more expensive...
- Most of the expensive things you got back home (the towel, quick dry clothes) won't help you much until you go to extremes (temperature, many walking days, etc.). Then their advantage will become evident. It means that for most of your trip, they won't be different than simple equipment :-) But I still don't regret them for a second. Money well spent.
People
- When I arrived I searched for people for a specific task, trekking. It took me a while and wasn't easy. I posted ads at different places, spent time in Israeli joints and harassed poor girls :-) Conclusions: Be attentive to other people's behaviour. If they are looking for someone they'll just behave so. If you are eating alone you can ask another lonely person to join you. The second thing is that if you go to a trek that most people start from Pokhara for example, and not Kathmandu, try searching there. Back to my story: At the end I e-mailed a girl who posted an ad in a Kathmandu Israeli oriented agency and I met her in Pokhara.
- Activities. I know it is a chicken and egg thing, but once you do something, you start to meet a lot of people. Then it just feeds itself somehow. You meet them again at town, go out to dinner with them, meet their friends. It lasts until everybody moves on (To India, SEA, home, etc.), but you might find someone that is heading your way. I didn't get used to it yet, and I might never will, but that's part of it. I had a few waves of saying goodbye to people and then meeting new. The one I liked most was saying goodbye to all the people from the rafting trip in Pokhara and then meeting them again in Kathmandu (Very small city :-) ).
- Go to places where backpackers might stay. Hint: Hilton or Carlton are not one of them.
- How are people? You know, same same but different ;-) If you don't like someone, say goodbye. (And if you love someone set them free). It is not always easy, but that's how it is. (I recall now you actually helped Elinor with that). Being alone is important too. I arrived to Bangkok with a girl. She wanted to move on and I wanted to stay, because it was my first time and because I needed some rest. I had to contemplate what was better, staying alone for now, or moving forward with her. At the end I picked to stay alone.
How am I? You know, as usual. Sometimes happy, sometimes sad. (And when I'm sad, I listen to music (= Do things that I like)). I am not sure I will change, but it is an experience, which I comprehend mostly after I do it.
My reply to my friend Carine was quite long and kind of a partial summary for me. So here goes:
The Annapurna Circuit trek, the 20 days version (not the 16). I went to Ghorapani in order to climb Poon Hill and see the Annapurna range (the best view) and finished at a place I don't remember right now. The other option is to finish at Beni. Also remember you might need buffer days if something goes wrong, you need a rest or some place is very nice (such as... damn, forgot!)
Around Pokhara:
I went rafting for three days on the Kali Gandaki river.
I went to Sarangkot before sunrise to see the Annapurna range from another angle. The best views were of the valleys as I've seen the Annapurna range quite a lot. I went back walking, lost the trail, which resulted in interesting experiences along the way. So try to get lost there. You know you need to reach the lakeside and you see it in view all the time.
I went to Devi's falls, missing the entry to its underground parts, which made it quite boring. From there I walked up to the World Peace Pagoda and climbed down the other side, finishing with a kayak ride back to Pokhara.
I went out to the busy bee, the only place which is open late enough.
I rested a lot at the Boomerang restaurant. I'm not sure if their food is good or cheap, but
By the way, now it is mandatory to go trekking with a porter or a guide. I recommend a porter anyhow. Meet him before you go trekking. Ask him if he has good equipment. Chat with him to see how good he knows English, which will contribute a lot to your enjoyment along the trek. My porter knew Hebrew very well too.
Around Kathmandu:
I went to Swayambunath (The monkey temple).
I went to Nagarkot to see the sunrise yet again. The good thing here is that you can see the sunrise from your window and not climb 40 minutes in the darkness. The bad thing is that you can see the sunrise from your window and not climb 40 minutes in a full moon lit sky. Then I tried to walk to Bhaktapur by foot, took a shortcut, which made me lose the trail and end up in a local bus, where I couldn't stand straight. But it was fun (= somewhat scary). I stayed in Bhaktapur for five days, not that you actually need it to see everything around. I just preferred waiting for my flight there.
I went out to G's Terrace, Fullmoon and Lhasa.
Additional things that other people did while I was resting:
The Chitwan national park.
The Langtang trek (a.k.a. The frozen lakes)
Tips:
- When you arrive to Nepal ask for a 60 days visa. For me it cost the same as the 30 days visa. And you might spend 20 days or more on the mountains...
- Try to minimize the amount of time you stay at big cities at first. If you have the option, go out of the city. Escaping Kathmandu to Pokhara was a very good idea. When I came back, it was much easier and even fun!
- Listen to yourself. For the first time you don't have to do everything. If you rather spend the whole day reading, resting, listening the music, do that. Some people hurry up from place to place. If it suits you fine it is OK, but don't do things because you have to. For me it was and still hard, but I get over it. There is always something to see. And the rest will be left for next time.
- Nothing is for free. If someone offers you something for free, it is a scam. You are going to pay, big time. If someone offers you a service, tell them thank you and be assertive about it.
- Don't trek alone with a guide/porter, especially a male guide/porter. First of all, it is always nice to trek with someone, and you don't have to be together the whole day. I used to run forward in the mornings, especially uphill. So I had time to stop whenever I wanted and think/day dream. In the afternoons I used to slow down and join other people for chats. Second, they have their idea of Western women and you are not going to change that. It is mostly because of the movies they see and because some tourists don't bother being informed about a country and its local customs, such as dressing modestly. Oh yeah, local people do take showers at the streets, but that's because they don't have running water at home. And they do it very modest, with their clothes on.
- Helping beggars and the rest. If you seriously want to help, go to the source. Volunteer, buy things for schools, but don't give them money, pens, sweets or balloons. If you buy a meal for one, then more will come, and you are just one person, not a charity organization. You just encourage them to leave whatever useful thing they might do and beg for money.
- Haggai's advice: Acquire late, release early ;-) Try to reasonably delay things until you are sure about them. That way you can leave your options open. Again, always do what's comfortable for you. One example: I bought the huge Lonely Planet India book in the airport back home and I'm not going to use it for following months for sure.
- Do the longest things first, then fill in the rest. The Annapurna circuit trek is a long one and will take a lot of your time.
Equipment, etc. tips
- After my first week in Kathmandu I bought the Lonely Planet book of Nepal. It helped me tremendously. It is very up to date, September 2006, so it helped me get the real value of services. You can also do it on your own, trial and error. It cost me two thirds the price in Israel and I could get back half of it when I returned it (which I didn't).
- You can buy many things in Nepal, Kathmandu and Pokhara. I think I said goodbye to 100$ there just on equipment. I bought walking poles, rain coat (poncho), a serious coat (forgot the name), shrinkage bag, a lock for my bag (I use it more to feel safe that no one messes with my bag while I tie my shoe laces and the likes), a drinking bottle, carbines and I don't remember what else. Just remember that the fact that everyone in Nepal, even the poorest farmer, wears a "The North Face" fleece jacket probably means something. Check the quality with all your senses. Sometimes they can be better than the original and sometimes pretty bad. If you don't want to compromise, there is a real North Face shop in front of the "Fire and Ice" restaurant in Kathmandu. You'll know you got there when you'll see the prices just added a digit or two. It is cheaper than Israel, even half (I could have bought so many things there if I wouldn't have to carry it all), but they might not have your size. (saved me 200NIS :-) ). About sending things home, it is not that cheap. But over weight is more expensive...
- Most of the expensive things you got back home (the towel, quick dry clothes) won't help you much until you go to extremes (temperature, many walking days, etc.). Then their advantage will become evident. It means that for most of your trip, they won't be different than simple equipment :-) But I still don't regret them for a second. Money well spent.
People
- When I arrived I searched for people for a specific task, trekking. It took me a while and wasn't easy. I posted ads at different places, spent time in Israeli joints and harassed poor girls :-) Conclusions: Be attentive to other people's behaviour. If they are looking for someone they'll just behave so. If you are eating alone you can ask another lonely person to join you. The second thing is that if you go to a trek that most people start from Pokhara for example, and not Kathmandu, try searching there. Back to my story: At the end I e-mailed a girl who posted an ad in a Kathmandu Israeli oriented agency and I met her in Pokhara.
- Activities. I know it is a chicken and egg thing, but once you do something, you start to meet a lot of people. Then it just feeds itself somehow. You meet them again at town, go out to dinner with them, meet their friends. It lasts until everybody moves on (To India, SEA, home, etc.), but you might find someone that is heading your way. I didn't get used to it yet, and I might never will, but that's part of it. I had a few waves of saying goodbye to people and then meeting new. The one I liked most was saying goodbye to all the people from the rafting trip in Pokhara and then meeting them again in Kathmandu (Very small city :-) ).
- Go to places where backpackers might stay. Hint: Hilton or Carlton are not one of them.
- How are people? You know, same same but different ;-) If you don't like someone, say goodbye. (And if you love someone set them free). It is not always easy, but that's how it is. (I recall now you actually helped Elinor with that). Being alone is important too. I arrived to Bangkok with a girl. She wanted to move on and I wanted to stay, because it was my first time and because I needed some rest. I had to contemplate what was better, staying alone for now, or moving forward with her. At the end I picked to stay alone.
How am I? You know, as usual. Sometimes happy, sometimes sad. (And when I'm sad, I listen to music (= Do things that I like)). I am not sure I will change, but it is an experience, which I comprehend mostly after I do it.
Friday, December 08, 2006
James Kim
I used to read his gadget reviews. The story really sounds like it is taken from a movie, except for the lack of a happy end.
I used to read his gadget reviews. The story really sounds like it is taken from a movie, except for the lack of a happy end.
Rain song
I've read there isn't enough rain back home. Maybe this will help...
"Hello
Can you hear me?
Am I gettin' through to you?
Hello
Is it late there?
There's a laughter on the line
Are you sure you're there alone?
Cause I'm
Tryin' to explain
Somethin's wrong
Ya just don't sound the same
Why don't you
Why don't you
Go outside
Go outside
Kiss the rain
Whenever you need me
Kiss the rain
Whenever I'm gone, too long.
If your lips
Feel lonely and thirsty
Kiss the rain
And wait for the dawn.
Keep in mind
We're under the same sky
And the nights
As empty for me, as for you
If ya feel
You can't wait till morinin'
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Hello
Do you miss me?
I hear you say you do
But not the way I'm missin' you
What's new?
How's the weather?
Is it stormy where you are?
Cause you sound so close but it feels like you're so far
Oh would it mean anything
If you knew
What I'm left imagining
In my mind
In my mind
Would you go
Would you go
Kiss the rain
And you'd fall over me
Think of me
Think of me
Think of me
Only me
Kiss the rain
Whenever you need me
Kiss the rain
Whenever I'm gone too long
If your lips
Feel hungry and tempted
Kiss the rain
and wait for the dawn
Keep in mind
We're under the same skies
And the nights
As empty for me, as for you
If you feel
You can't wait till morning
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Oooooohhhhh
Kiss the rain
Oooooohhhhh
Kiss the rain
Hello
Can ya hear me?
Can ya hear me?
Can ya hear me?"
Kiss the rain - Billie Myres
I've read there isn't enough rain back home. Maybe this will help...
"Hello
Can you hear me?
Am I gettin' through to you?
Hello
Is it late there?
There's a laughter on the line
Are you sure you're there alone?
Cause I'm
Tryin' to explain
Somethin's wrong
Ya just don't sound the same
Why don't you
Why don't you
Go outside
Go outside
Kiss the rain
Whenever you need me
Kiss the rain
Whenever I'm gone, too long.
If your lips
Feel lonely and thirsty
Kiss the rain
And wait for the dawn.
Keep in mind
We're under the same sky
And the nights
As empty for me, as for you
If ya feel
You can't wait till morinin'
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Hello
Do you miss me?
I hear you say you do
But not the way I'm missin' you
What's new?
How's the weather?
Is it stormy where you are?
Cause you sound so close but it feels like you're so far
Oh would it mean anything
If you knew
What I'm left imagining
In my mind
In my mind
Would you go
Would you go
Kiss the rain
And you'd fall over me
Think of me
Think of me
Think of me
Only me
Kiss the rain
Whenever you need me
Kiss the rain
Whenever I'm gone too long
If your lips
Feel hungry and tempted
Kiss the rain
and wait for the dawn
Keep in mind
We're under the same skies
And the nights
As empty for me, as for you
If you feel
You can't wait till morning
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Oooooohhhhh
Kiss the rain
Oooooohhhhh
Kiss the rain
Hello
Can ya hear me?
Can ya hear me?
Can ya hear me?"
Kiss the rain - Billie Myres
Sunday, December 03, 2006
First thing first
Today, following doctor's orders to rest when you got a cold, I went visiting the local temples: the shopping malls. I must state that this idea was basically suicidal because today was a weekend day and tomorrow is a holiday (Father's day or King's birthday).
The malls are more Western than American malls. It is amazing, both ways. The MBK (Mall of Bangkok) is a huge place. Each floor (there are seven) is dedicated to a few subjects. Some floors have organized stores and some have sort of stalls, which create hundreds of "stores" in the floor. A bit claustrophobic. You need to use your navigation skills. Good thing I lived in, sorry, next to a mall for five years, so I'm quite an expert. Each American food chain has a store or two. Signs direct you to the food court on the fifth floor, but don't worry, there is one on almost every floor!
I went to the fourth floor to look for some electronics. It seems that the only electronic device people use in Bangkok is a cell phone. Tons of shops providing cellphones, cellphone accessories, memory cards for cellphones, everything! Basically it meant a long walk for me in search for other things. Bottom line: Nothing can compare to shopping on the Internet, even back home. I bought just one of the things I actually intended to buy, before my cold crippled me and forced me to go back.
Israeli stories told me to look for the VIP cinema in the MBK. I actually found it but it screened some horror movie. Casino Royale was on the regular cinema.
From there I went by a bridge to Siam Discovery Center and Siam Center. Both have the "mall" look I am used too.
I went to the malls half walking and half of the way by a local bus. It was a bit harder than Kathmandu to find street names. In Kathmandu a street name appears on every store sign. Here a street name appears at corners but, while walking, I could see only signs in Thai. Many people I met don't seem to know English too well. The bus service, on the other hand, was great. Going back took me about five minutes.
My nose is still running. It is easier and cheaper to find a beer here than a pot of tea. The small difference!
Today, following doctor's orders to rest when you got a cold, I went visiting the local temples: the shopping malls. I must state that this idea was basically suicidal because today was a weekend day and tomorrow is a holiday (Father's day or King's birthday).
The malls are more Western than American malls. It is amazing, both ways. The MBK (Mall of Bangkok) is a huge place. Each floor (there are seven) is dedicated to a few subjects. Some floors have organized stores and some have sort of stalls, which create hundreds of "stores" in the floor. A bit claustrophobic. You need to use your navigation skills. Good thing I lived in, sorry, next to a mall for five years, so I'm quite an expert. Each American food chain has a store or two. Signs direct you to the food court on the fifth floor, but don't worry, there is one on almost every floor!
I went to the fourth floor to look for some electronics. It seems that the only electronic device people use in Bangkok is a cell phone. Tons of shops providing cellphones, cellphone accessories, memory cards for cellphones, everything! Basically it meant a long walk for me in search for other things. Bottom line: Nothing can compare to shopping on the Internet, even back home. I bought just one of the things I actually intended to buy, before my cold crippled me and forced me to go back.
Israeli stories told me to look for the VIP cinema in the MBK. I actually found it but it screened some horror movie. Casino Royale was on the regular cinema.
From there I went by a bridge to Siam Discovery Center and Siam Center. Both have the "mall" look I am used too.
I went to the malls half walking and half of the way by a local bus. It was a bit harder than Kathmandu to find street names. In Kathmandu a street name appears on every store sign. Here a street name appears at corners but, while walking, I could see only signs in Thai. Many people I met don't seem to know English too well. The bus service, on the other hand, was great. Going back took me about five minutes.
My nose is still running. It is easier and cheaper to find a beer here than a pot of tea. The small difference!
Saturday, December 02, 2006
Friday, December 01, 2006
One night in Bangkok
This morning I've added one hour and forty five minutes my time, about twenty degrees Celsius and something like 60% humidity. Insane! I was freezing in Nepal, craving for a hot shower, and here my first shower was cold.
We found a place to stay off the main tourist area but went back there as the sun disappeared. It is a madhouse! It looks like some student day festival, but probably every day. Eating in restaurants has just become unnecessary. The food at the stalls is delicious and fast. It is prepared in front of your eyes, so you can see exactly where it comes from. Take rice with sweet and sour vegetables with chicken, prepared in a wok, and it is even healthy. After eating this initial treat, it just became an eat-as-you-walk buffet. Only the night will tell of the consequences.
I am finally starting to feel Asia. The language sounds like what I'm used to from Chinese movies. Very different from Nepali. On the other hand, now I appreciate Nepalis' warmth, compared to what I've met so far (This is just the first day...). This place is also much more touristic, with totally different type of people around, and not for the best.
This post was a bit hasted as I am falling asleep and really wanted to write this down.
This morning I've added one hour and forty five minutes my time, about twenty degrees Celsius and something like 60% humidity. Insane! I was freezing in Nepal, craving for a hot shower, and here my first shower was cold.
We found a place to stay off the main tourist area but went back there as the sun disappeared. It is a madhouse! It looks like some student day festival, but probably every day. Eating in restaurants has just become unnecessary. The food at the stalls is delicious and fast. It is prepared in front of your eyes, so you can see exactly where it comes from. Take rice with sweet and sour vegetables with chicken, prepared in a wok, and it is even healthy. After eating this initial treat, it just became an eat-as-you-walk buffet. Only the night will tell of the consequences.
I am finally starting to feel Asia. The language sounds like what I'm used to from Chinese movies. Very different from Nepali. On the other hand, now I appreciate Nepalis' warmth, compared to what I've met so far (This is just the first day...). This place is also much more touristic, with totally different type of people around, and not for the best.
This post was a bit hasted as I am falling asleep and really wanted to write this down.
Thursday, November 30, 2006
Big Mistake
On my last days in Nepal, I've decided to try somethings I haven't had the time to try before. So today at lunch I went for the local wine, Tongba, which I thought was the local beer (big mistake).
"Tongba is a special cultural alcoholic beverage of Limbu. Tongba basically is a Nepali ethnic wine made of fermented millet. Tongba is made by pouring hot water into a pot of fermented millet and drunk with a bamboo straw. Tongba is popular during winter season with locals and year around with tourists."
Source
Because I came originally from Austria (Not exactly true), I am known for my enormous alcohol capacities (Terrible lie). Hence the awful headache I am experiencing at the moment and the general bad feeling. Good idea!
On my last days in Nepal, I've decided to try somethings I haven't had the time to try before. So today at lunch I went for the local wine, Tongba, which I thought was the local beer (big mistake).
"Tongba is a special cultural alcoholic beverage of Limbu. Tongba basically is a Nepali ethnic wine made of fermented millet. Tongba is made by pouring hot water into a pot of fermented millet and drunk with a bamboo straw. Tongba is popular during winter season with locals and year around with tourists."
Source
Because I came originally from Austria (Not exactly true), I am known for my enormous alcohol capacities (Terrible lie). Hence the awful headache I am experiencing at the moment and the general bad feeling. Good idea!
Visit to Bhaktapur
I've been to Bhaktapur for five days. On one of the mornings I went looking around with Lee, a girl from Malaysia, who lives in Singapore, and my faithful Nepal Lonely Planet guide. Lee came for a short visit to Nepal, just like we go to London. We had a conversation the evening before about Malaysia and the things to see there.
Unfortunately for Lee and me, it was Saturday, the kids day off from school. And they were all around us. A group of kids got stuck on us for a while, trying to guide us, convince us to buy them school books (so they can immidietly sell them back and get the money) and more. I had to use my limited creativity in order to remain sane. Examples:
- I reached the conclusion that the kids weren't experienced enough at guiding. So, in order to improve the situation I suggested that one kid will take the other to a guided tour around the city, show him around and explain about the intriguing history of the place. Then, when he was done, the other kid becomes the guide and the previous guide become the guided. Endless improvement potential.
- Play yourself dumb. When they say "Horse" I say "House? There are dozens around here!"; When they point at a lion statue I said it was a snake, etc.
- And more, which I can't recall right now, because of my big mistake. Check out the next post.
I've been to Bhaktapur for five days. On one of the mornings I went looking around with Lee, a girl from Malaysia, who lives in Singapore, and my faithful Nepal Lonely Planet guide. Lee came for a short visit to Nepal, just like we go to London. We had a conversation the evening before about Malaysia and the things to see there.
Unfortunately for Lee and me, it was Saturday, the kids day off from school. And they were all around us. A group of kids got stuck on us for a while, trying to guide us, convince us to buy them school books (so they can immidietly sell them back and get the money) and more. I had to use my limited creativity in order to remain sane. Examples:
- I reached the conclusion that the kids weren't experienced enough at guiding. So, in order to improve the situation I suggested that one kid will take the other to a guided tour around the city, show him around and explain about the intriguing history of the place. Then, when he was done, the other kid becomes the guide and the previous guide become the guided. Endless improvement potential.
- Play yourself dumb. When they say "Horse" I say "House? There are dozens around here!"; When they point at a lion statue I said it was a snake, etc.
- And more, which I can't recall right now, because of my big mistake. Check out the next post.
Monday, November 27, 2006
Being useful in Nepal
I can't plow a field, I can't handle chilly, I can't carry heavy loads, I can't lead a pack of twenty donkeys, I don't know how to ride a Yak (but I can probably make a nice fillet) but I can still fix a computer mouse! (Applause from thousands of computer geeks around the world) .
Yesterday I've heard my Bhaktapur guest house owner talking to one of the workers about their computer not working. Some forgotten part of me couldn't contain itself and, letting a fine hot chocolate get cold, I asked if I could have a look. Two minutes later the problem was solved. One of the axles in an old, rubber ball mouse was out. Using an old Chinese technique, I pushed it in with a pen and a screw driver.
Now I'm really ready to move on! (This place is getting awfully cold)
I can't plow a field, I can't handle chilly, I can't carry heavy loads, I can't lead a pack of twenty donkeys, I don't know how to ride a Yak (but I can probably make a nice fillet) but I can still fix a computer mouse! (Applause from thousands of computer geeks around the world) .
Yesterday I've heard my Bhaktapur guest house owner talking to one of the workers about their computer not working. Some forgotten part of me couldn't contain itself and, letting a fine hot chocolate get cold, I asked if I could have a look. Two minutes later the problem was solved. One of the axles in an old, rubber ball mouse was out. Using an old Chinese technique, I pushed it in with a pen and a screw driver.
Now I'm really ready to move on! (This place is getting awfully cold)
Saturday, November 25, 2006
Knee information (The knee saga continues)
Source
Chondromalacia
Chondromalacia refers to softening of the articular cartilage of the knee cap. This disorder occurs most often in young adults and can be caused by injury, overuse, parts out of alignment, or muscle weakness. Instead of gliding smoothly across the lower end of the thigh bone, the knee cap rubs against it, roughening the cartilage underneath the knee cap. The damage may range from a slightly abnormal surface of the cartilage to a surface that has been worn away to the bone. Chondromalacia related to injury occurs when a blow to the knee cap tears off either a small piece of cartilage or a large fragment containing a piece of bone.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The most frequent symptom is a dull pain around or under the knee cap that worsens when walking down stairs or hills. A person may also feel pain when climbing stairs or when the knee bears weight as it straightens. The disorder is common in runners and is also seen in skiers, cyclists, and soccer players. A patient's description of symptoms and a follow-up X-ray usually help the doctor make a diagnosis. Although arthroscopy can confirm the diagnosis, it's not performed unless the condition requires extensive treatment.
Treatment
Many doctors recommend that patients with chondromalacia perform low-impact exercises that strengthen muscles, particularly the inner part of the quadriceps, without injuring joints. Swimming, riding a stationary bicycle, and using a cross-country ski machine are acceptable as long as the knee doesn't bend more than 90 degrees. Electrical stimulation may also be used to strengthen the muscles. If these treatments don't improve the condition, the doctor may perform arthroscopic surgery to smooth the surface of the cartilage and "wash out" the cartilage fragments that cause the joint to catch during bending and straightening. In more severe cases, surgery may be necessary to correct the angle of the knee cap and relieve friction with the cartilage or to reposition parts that are out of alignment.
Source
Chondromalacia
Chondromalacia refers to softening of the articular cartilage of the knee cap. This disorder occurs most often in young adults and can be caused by injury, overuse, parts out of alignment, or muscle weakness. Instead of gliding smoothly across the lower end of the thigh bone, the knee cap rubs against it, roughening the cartilage underneath the knee cap. The damage may range from a slightly abnormal surface of the cartilage to a surface that has been worn away to the bone. Chondromalacia related to injury occurs when a blow to the knee cap tears off either a small piece of cartilage or a large fragment containing a piece of bone.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The most frequent symptom is a dull pain around or under the knee cap that worsens when walking down stairs or hills. A person may also feel pain when climbing stairs or when the knee bears weight as it straightens. The disorder is common in runners and is also seen in skiers, cyclists, and soccer players. A patient's description of symptoms and a follow-up X-ray usually help the doctor make a diagnosis. Although arthroscopy can confirm the diagnosis, it's not performed unless the condition requires extensive treatment.
Treatment
Many doctors recommend that patients with chondromalacia perform low-impact exercises that strengthen muscles, particularly the inner part of the quadriceps, without injuring joints. Swimming, riding a stationary bicycle, and using a cross-country ski machine are acceptable as long as the knee doesn't bend more than 90 degrees. Electrical stimulation may also be used to strengthen the muscles. If these treatments don't improve the condition, the doctor may perform arthroscopic surgery to smooth the surface of the cartilage and "wash out" the cartilage fragments that cause the joint to catch during bending and straightening. In more severe cases, surgery may be necessary to correct the angle of the knee cap and relieve friction with the cartilage or to reposition parts that are out of alignment.
Friday, November 24, 2006
Bhaktapur
Today we continued to Bhaktapur. I've taken a shortcut, which made us miss the trail and walk on the road. So after a while we were tired and therefore gave up and took a crowded local bus to Bhaktapur. The locals were many school kids, so it was fun, except for the fact that I am tall (See here)
I said goodbye to Christa here, because she had to go back to Kathmandu to check her flght to Thailand.
I paid a hefty sum of money to get in, 750NRs, a little more than 10USD. I am not sure I'll see a lot of the place, because I want to rest a bit before moving on to Thailand. This place is quieter than Kathmandu, so I might stay here for a few days.
And finally, my flight to Thailand is currently on the 1st of December. It is pretty cold here. It is about time to move to warmer regions.
Today we continued to Bhaktapur. I've taken a shortcut, which made us miss the trail and walk on the road. So after a while we were tired and therefore gave up and took a crowded local bus to Bhaktapur. The locals were many school kids, so it was fun, except for the fact that I am tall (See here)
I said goodbye to Christa here, because she had to go back to Kathmandu to check her flght to Thailand.
I paid a hefty sum of money to get in, 750NRs, a little more than 10USD. I am not sure I'll see a lot of the place, because I want to rest a bit before moving on to Thailand. This place is quieter than Kathmandu, so I might stay here for a few days.
And finally, my flight to Thailand is currently on the 1st of December. It is pretty cold here. It is about time to move to warmer regions.
A tip from Nepal - Do not be tall!
The ceilings are too low, the flip flops are too small (I tried to get a pair because my Source sandals just don't dry after a shower, not to mention being quite heavy), some restaurants' tables are too low, the bus seats are too narrow and there is not enough space between them I'm not sure that you'll recognize me when I get back. My head got hit so many times it is has to be different now from its original shape. Maybe I should wear a helmet.
The ceilings are too low, the flip flops are too small (I tried to get a pair because my Source sandals just don't dry after a shower, not to mention being quite heavy), some restaurants' tables are too low, the bus seats are too narrow and there is not enough space between them I'm not sure that you'll recognize me when I get back. My head got hit so many times it is has to be different now from its original shape. Maybe I should wear a helmet.
Nagarkot
I went to Nagarkot yesterday with Christa. I met her one night on the Annapurna circuit trek. She was just starting here trek, the Annapurna Sanctuary trek (a.k.a. the ABC, Annapurna Base Camp). Funny thing, I met her again at the same Internet place in Kathmandu I met Katrin and Katja again.
Yesterday we went together to Nagarkot, a place famous for its view of the Langtang Himalayan range, where you can have a small peek at the Everest. And the familiar drill repeats, eating early, going to sleep early and waking up way too early. At least this time the view was just outside our window (Green Valley hotel, a cheap one, but with a great view).
The skies were not so clear and the mountains were not so close as on previous occasions. The Everest mountain was just a spot in our imagination. One more reason to come back.
To be continued, or how I took another "shortcut" to Bhaktapur...
I went to Nagarkot yesterday with Christa. I met her one night on the Annapurna circuit trek. She was just starting here trek, the Annapurna Sanctuary trek (a.k.a. the ABC, Annapurna Base Camp). Funny thing, I met her again at the same Internet place in Kathmandu I met Katrin and Katja again.
Yesterday we went together to Nagarkot, a place famous for its view of the Langtang Himalayan range, where you can have a small peek at the Everest. And the familiar drill repeats, eating early, going to sleep early and waking up way too early. At least this time the view was just outside our window (Green Valley hotel, a cheap one, but with a great view).
The skies were not so clear and the mountains were not so close as on previous occasions. The Everest mountain was just a spot in our imagination. One more reason to come back.
To be continued, or how I took another "shortcut" to Bhaktapur...
Wednesday, November 22, 2006
Proudest Monkey - Dave Matthews Band
Swing in this tree
Oh I am bounce around so well
Branch to branch,
limb to limb you see
All in a day's dream
I'm stuck
Like the other monkeys here
I am a humble monkey
Sitting up in here again
But then came the day
I climbed out of these safe limbs
Ventured away
Walking tall, head high up and singing
I went to the city
Car horns, corners and the gritty
Now I am the proudest monkey you've ever seen
Monkey see, monkey do
Then comes the day
Staring at myself I turn to question me
I wonder do I want the simple, simple life that I once lived in well
Oh things were quiet then
In a way they were the better days
But now I am the proudest monkey you've ever seen
Monkey see, monkey do
Monkey see, monkey do
Swing in this tree
Oh I am bounce around so well
Branch to branch,
limb to limb you see
All in a day's dream
I'm stuck
Like the other monkeys here
I am a humble monkey
Sitting up in here again
But then came the day
I climbed out of these safe limbs
Ventured away
Walking tall, head high up and singing
I went to the city
Car horns, corners and the gritty
Now I am the proudest monkey you've ever seen
Monkey see, monkey do
Then comes the day
Staring at myself I turn to question me
I wonder do I want the simple, simple life that I once lived in well
Oh things were quiet then
In a way they were the better days
But now I am the proudest monkey you've ever seen
Monkey see, monkey do
Monkey see, monkey do
Tuesday, November 21, 2006
The Knee Report
I guess these things are also part of a trip. My knee started hurting during the Annapurna circuit trek. I used an elastic knee brace/support, but after two weeks I just couldn't wear it on. Few days later I took a look at both my knees, finding out that one is bigger than the other. So time went by and I expected the swelling to pass, but it refused to do so.
Today, almost two weeks after the end of the trek, I went to a clinic. The staff was Western, very nice and understanding.
The analysis is that nothing is terribly wrong. The knee is inflammed from the effort and needs time to heal. Other than that it is perfectly fine. I was concerned that I would have to come back home to deal with it (Which also has the benefit of seeing you guys back home a lot earlier than originally planned). At least now I feel much better. I hope it will pass in the next few days and I will be as good as new (almost...)
I guess these things are also part of a trip. My knee started hurting during the Annapurna circuit trek. I used an elastic knee brace/support, but after two weeks I just couldn't wear it on. Few days later I took a look at both my knees, finding out that one is bigger than the other. So time went by and I expected the swelling to pass, but it refused to do so.
Today, almost two weeks after the end of the trek, I went to a clinic. The staff was Western, very nice and understanding.
The analysis is that nothing is terribly wrong. The knee is inflammed from the effort and needs time to heal. Other than that it is perfectly fine. I was concerned that I would have to come back home to deal with it (Which also has the benefit of seeing you guys back home a lot earlier than originally planned). At least now I feel much better. I hope it will pass in the next few days and I will be as good as new (almost...)
Monday, November 20, 2006
Back to Kathmandu
Well I'm back, bigger and better than before! Ok, not really, but it is a whole lot easier to come back to a place you have been before. It was nice for a very short while to see that everything here is cheaper. The most obvious is the price of surfing the Internet per hour, 20-30NRs instead of 99NRs! Nevertheless, I will be happy to pay that much to get back to the lake instead of noisy Kathmandu. It became a familiar place, with tourists and local people to wave hello to each day. I plan to head out for the nearby villages, so I won't have to stay here too long.
I've taken a "fancy" bus to Kathmandu, which costs almost triple the money. You get lunch for that price and a better seat, which is crucial for a long guy like me.
Well I'm back, bigger and better than before! Ok, not really, but it is a whole lot easier to come back to a place you have been before. It was nice for a very short while to see that everything here is cheaper. The most obvious is the price of surfing the Internet per hour, 20-30NRs instead of 99NRs! Nevertheless, I will be happy to pay that much to get back to the lake instead of noisy Kathmandu. It became a familiar place, with tourists and local people to wave hello to each day. I plan to head out for the nearby villages, so I won't have to stay here too long.
I've taken a "fancy" bus to Kathmandu, which costs almost triple the money. You get lunch for that price and a better seat, which is crucial for a long guy like me.
Saturday, November 18, 2006
Kali Gandaki rafting
Yesterday I came back from a three days rafting trip on the Kali Gandaki river.
I went because I thought it would be nice to be on a camping trip, where you just have to camp and eat. But then I discovered rafting! I sat at the front for half a day, where you can see the rapids coming. When you row, your body leans out of the raft. So together it becomes quite an adrenalin rush.
I fell off the raft on the first day, some of it was my choosing (yeah right), as I wanted to see how it is to be carried out by the rapids and rescued by the safety kayaks. I was also pushed out once or twice, so I had quite a few dips in the water.
The guide on our raft was highly skilled. He does most of the job in getting the raft in and out of the rapids. As someone said, he was the steering wheel while we were the engine.
The major downside was timing. Apparently the current period is the beginning of the end of the season for this river. The water are a bit too cold and the there aren't that much sun hours. Therefore at the afternoon, I was exhausted from the cold and the will to jump off the raft and have fun left me.
Nepal is considered a rafting heaven. Nevertheless, the government is in the middle of building numerous dams. Thus shortening rafting trips. In this trip, the dam on the Kali Gandaki was closed, turning the part of the river close to it into a lake. As a result, most of the third day we paddled and not much more.
I went on the trip with a traveling agency, which is considered Israeli (Shai agency). Even so, we were just two of a group of thirteen, primarily because there weren't enough people, so two other agencies added their people to our group. Bottom line, we were 2 Israelis, 4 Dutch, 2 guys from the Czech republic (One in a safety kayak), 2 German girls, 2 Chinese, 1 Australian and 1 Irish guy.
Yesterday I came back from a three days rafting trip on the Kali Gandaki river.
I went because I thought it would be nice to be on a camping trip, where you just have to camp and eat. But then I discovered rafting! I sat at the front for half a day, where you can see the rapids coming. When you row, your body leans out of the raft. So together it becomes quite an adrenalin rush.
I fell off the raft on the first day, some of it was my choosing (yeah right), as I wanted to see how it is to be carried out by the rapids and rescued by the safety kayaks. I was also pushed out once or twice, so I had quite a few dips in the water.
The guide on our raft was highly skilled. He does most of the job in getting the raft in and out of the rapids. As someone said, he was the steering wheel while we were the engine.
The major downside was timing. Apparently the current period is the beginning of the end of the season for this river. The water are a bit too cold and the there aren't that much sun hours. Therefore at the afternoon, I was exhausted from the cold and the will to jump off the raft and have fun left me.
Nepal is considered a rafting heaven. Nevertheless, the government is in the middle of building numerous dams. Thus shortening rafting trips. In this trip, the dam on the Kali Gandaki was closed, turning the part of the river close to it into a lake. As a result, most of the third day we paddled and not much more.
I went on the trip with a traveling agency, which is considered Israeli (Shai agency). Even so, we were just two of a group of thirteen, primarily because there weren't enough people, so two other agencies added their people to our group. Bottom line, we were 2 Israelis, 4 Dutch, 2 guys from the Czech republic (One in a safety kayak), 2 German girls, 2 Chinese, 1 Australian and 1 Irish guy.
Monday, November 13, 2006
Next(?)
One thing I've learned here is that you can never really plan ahead, so the following words might not be words the electrons or liquid used to display them, but here goes:
Future plans for now: Go back to Kathmandu, order a flight to Thailand and visit the area untilt the flight (Nagrakot, Bahktapur, Dulikhel)
One thing I've learned here is that you can never really plan ahead, so the following words might not be words the electrons or liquid used to display them, but here goes:
Future plans for now: Go back to Kathmandu, order a flight to Thailand and visit the area untilt the flight (Nagrakot, Bahktapur, Dulikhel)
"Every new beginning comes from some other beginning's end" Closing time, Semisonic.
I've said goodbye last night for my companion for the last month, Ayelet, with whom I went on the Annapurna circuit trek and the last few days of resting in Pokhara. It took me 2 seconds before I heard a "hello" and met the person to dine my next breakfast with (Just breakfast!).
Sometimes life can amaze you.
I've said goodbye last night for my companion for the last month, Ayelet, with whom I went on the Annapurna circuit trek and the last few days of resting in Pokhara. It took me 2 seconds before I heard a "hello" and met the person to dine my next breakfast with (Just breakfast!).
Sometimes life can amaze you.
Friday, November 10, 2006
Altitude effects - Personal impressions
At Manang, somewhere around 3400m, I went to a AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) lecture by a Western doctor, volounteering there. In the lecture he explained that altitude effects have nothing to do with age, gender or physical fitness. It depends on your body's ability to adjust. Up to 2500m the adjustment is immediate, from 2500-5000m it takes some time to adjust and from around 5000-5500m and higher, the body can not adjust.
I really like going up fast, running up the mountains, weight or not. But after Manang I started walking real slow. My pulse raced when I quickened my steps and I had to breathe a lot. Many 50+ years old Europeans passed me by easily. I guess it is easier when you live near the Alps... And so the famous "Mountain goat" was reduced to a snail :-)
In one place (Yak Kharka) I went for an acclimization trip. The saying goes "walk high, sleep low", meaning you shouldn't sleep at your highest altitude during a day. I made some good people worry as they weren't sure if I came back. Probably because I also had an awful headache that day. That was solved with a headache pill and tripling the amounts of water I drank to more than three litters a day (Just water, not to mention teas and soups).
So all in all, my body and I handled it quite fun, well almost (see next post)
At Manang, somewhere around 3400m, I went to a AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) lecture by a Western doctor, volounteering there. In the lecture he explained that altitude effects have nothing to do with age, gender or physical fitness. It depends on your body's ability to adjust. Up to 2500m the adjustment is immediate, from 2500-5000m it takes some time to adjust and from around 5000-5500m and higher, the body can not adjust.
I really like going up fast, running up the mountains, weight or not. But after Manang I started walking real slow. My pulse raced when I quickened my steps and I had to breathe a lot. Many 50+ years old Europeans passed me by easily. I guess it is easier when you live near the Alps... And so the famous "Mountain goat" was reduced to a snail :-)
In one place (Yak Kharka) I went for an acclimization trip. The saying goes "walk high, sleep low", meaning you shouldn't sleep at your highest altitude during a day. I made some good people worry as they weren't sure if I came back. Probably because I also had an awful headache that day. That was solved with a headache pill and tripling the amounts of water I drank to more than three litters a day (Just water, not to mention teas and soups).
So all in all, my body and I handled it quite fun, well almost (see next post)
The importance of good equipment
Good expensive travel equipment doesn't help you much when you are in the big city. Shoes are shoes and bags are bags. But trekking for twenty days made the importance of good equipment more evident.
Shoes and custom insoles - I didn't have but one tiny blister for twenty days of walking.
Synthetic towel - Excellent for the days where there is not too much soon. Surprisingly it also stays quite clean.
Good backpack - We went out three people with one porter, where usually two people take a porter. So I've taken the stupid(?) call to carry some of my stuff on my back. As a result I've taken my big backpack and the small one. It proved to be excellent. If you ever ran with a half full tank of water on your back you know what it means to carry unbalanced weight. The numerous, initially unrelated, straps became very handy in spreading the weight such that I won't lose balance when I don't go straight (I was sober, honestly, the land isn't straight).
Head torch (flashlight) - Nothing more to add. There is no
Trekker pants - Dry quickly and with many useful pockets.
Thermal wear and quick dry shirts - Same same, very important in order not to freeze when resting from exertion
Good expensive travel equipment doesn't help you much when you are in the big city. Shoes are shoes and bags are bags. But trekking for twenty days made the importance of good equipment more evident.
Shoes and custom insoles - I didn't have but one tiny blister for twenty days of walking.
Synthetic towel - Excellent for the days where there is not too much soon. Surprisingly it also stays quite clean.
Good backpack - We went out three people with one porter, where usually two people take a porter. So I've taken the stupid(?) call to carry some of my stuff on my back. As a result I've taken my big backpack and the small one. It proved to be excellent. If you ever ran with a half full tank of water on your back you know what it means to carry unbalanced weight. The numerous, initially unrelated, straps became very handy in spreading the weight such that I won't lose balance when I don't go straight (I was sober, honestly, the land isn't straight).
Head torch (flashlight) - Nothing more to add. There is no
Trekker pants - Dry quickly and with many useful pockets.
Thermal wear and quick dry shirts - Same same, very important in order not to freeze when resting from exertion
Ever had a blade stuck against your throat?
Well I have, yesterday. I let someone else shave me for the first time. I've never let someone get a knife so close to my skin (maybe except some hot headed friends ;-) ). The 'shaver' pulls and pinches your skin in order to stretch it. It is scary and fun at the same time. Recommended!
Well I have, yesterday. I let someone else shave me for the first time. I've never let someone get a knife so close to my skin (maybe except some hot headed friends ;-) ). The 'shaver' pulls and pinches your skin in order to stretch it. It is scary and fun at the same time. Recommended!
Traveler's diarrhea
I've said before and I say it again, it is not a question of whether you'll get but when you get it. So I got it. A very mild occurrence, but a scary one nevertheless. Last night I woke up at 3:00 AM. My body temperature rose quickly and it made realize nicely why people talk about delusions when they are having a high fever. It wasn't fun but it lasted for ten minutes, and not for days. Until next time...
I've said before and I say it again, it is not a question of whether you'll get but when you get it. So I got it. A very mild occurrence, but a scary one nevertheless. Last night I woke up at 3:00 AM. My body temperature rose quickly and it made realize nicely why people talk about delusions when they are having a high fever. It wasn't fun but it lasted for ten minutes, and not for days. Until next time...
Thursday, November 09, 2006
Back to Pokhara!
After twenty days of walking, rising with the sun, sleeping when it is gone, physical and mental endurance, endless Dal Bahts, annoying kids, amazing views, one swollen knee, about 250 km, freezing weather, 25+ liters of iodine water and interesting people, I'm back to Pokhara for some R&R.
Thursday, October 19, 2006
Ken
Yesterday night I've met Ken. A Canadian who lived in Munich for the last ten years and left to see the world. He has done more than a few things in his life, like owning a dive shop/school, managing an art gallery and more. He already been to some of the places I intend to visit.
We spent the whole day together. I liked his opinions on various topics we've discussed, such as the political status in Nepal and the holocaust.
Yesterday night I've met Ken. A Canadian who lived in Munich for the last ten years and left to see the world. He has done more than a few things in his life, like owning a dive shop/school, managing an art gallery and more. He already been to some of the places I intend to visit.
We spent the whole day together. I liked his opinions on various topics we've discussed, such as the political status in Nepal and the holocaust.
Wednesday, October 18, 2006
Avi and Nehba
At the hotel I was staying I've met an Israeli guy who was staying there for over a month. Part of his personal intentions of going on a trip was to get away from his guitar. But fortunately, he couldn't and got one when he was in India. I watched him play, and he is very good.
He adopted a local Nepali band and he works with during the day and plays with them during their shows. The band is made of three lead singers, each with his own style , a drummer and three guitarists. They perform at G's Terrace and at the Lhasa in Kathmandu.
I've followed them during one day as they rehearsed and played at the Lhasa. They are quite good and very nice people. Their name is Nehba.
Saturday, October 14, 2006
It has been almost a week I'm abroad and in Kathmandu.
Travelling here was daunting, a three flights day, which went surprisingly well, considering the second flight was delayed. Both foreign flights were quite nice, and allowed me to experiment with some local food, even in "airplane" servings. I especially like the Gulab Jamun, which is an Indian sweet pastry.
I've arrived after 22:00 local time (3:45 hours difference from Israel time, quite weird). I went for the "shuttle" arranged by the hotel I've reserved from Israel. It was quite a scary ride, at the middle of the night, on the "roads" (more like alleys) of Kathmandu, where mostly packs of dogs roam the streets.
The original reserved hotel was full, so they arranged me an alternative hotel, "Madhuban hotel". I've arrived there shaken and went to a jet-lagged sleep, as this is the first time I've been traveling East-ward.
Travelling here was daunting, a three flights day, which went surprisingly well, considering the second flight was delayed. Both foreign flights were quite nice, and allowed me to experiment with some local food, even in "airplane" servings. I especially like the Gulab Jamun, which is an Indian sweet pastry.
I've arrived after 22:00 local time (3:45 hours difference from Israel time, quite weird). I went for the "shuttle" arranged by the hotel I've reserved from Israel. It was quite a scary ride, at the middle of the night, on the "roads" (more like alleys) of Kathmandu, where mostly packs of dogs roam the streets.
The original reserved hotel was full, so they arranged me an alternative hotel, "Madhuban hotel". I've arrived there shaken and went to a jet-lagged sleep, as this is the first time I've been traveling East-ward.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
