Shock waves - and a request
The effect of the powerful earthquake next to Taiwan could be felt here too. Apparently Taiwan is a major hub for Internet communication. As a result, Internet cafes' became more empty than ...
Please help poor Shachar complete his sentence, as the lack of sleep made him totally incompetence at this late hour of the day, 21:15.
Friday, December 29, 2006
Arriving to Luang Prabang
After spending almost two weeks in villages and really small towns, arriving to Luang Prabang seemed like arriving to Bangkok again. Many tourists crowding the streets, fancy places to eat, higher prices and even Western pubs. A close by airport makes the city reachable for tourists other than backpackers.
After spending almost two weeks in villages and really small towns, arriving to Luang Prabang seemed like arriving to Bangkok again. Many tourists crowding the streets, fancy places to eat, higher prices and even Western pubs. A close by airport makes the city reachable for tourists other than backpackers.
Holiday season
Merry Christmas everyone! Yes, tons of Europeans in the streets and, even worse, at the guest houses, making finding an available room quite a task. On the other hand, when I was in Muang Ngoi, freezing with the rest, one tourist had a package from her mom for Christmas with a piece of a Christmas tree and some sweets, that she shared with the rest of us. It was a nice experience, modest and to the point.
And here comes new year...
Merry Christmas everyone! Yes, tons of Europeans in the streets and, even worse, at the guest houses, making finding an available room quite a task. On the other hand, when I was in Muang Ngoi, freezing with the rest, one tourist had a package from her mom for Christmas with a piece of a Christmas tree and some sweets, that she shared with the rest of us. It was a nice experience, modest and to the point.
And here comes new year...
Wedding season
Everywhere in Laos everyone seems to be getting married. I guess the cool and dry season is the best time for it. Weddings are usually a two days affair. In Moang Ngoi Nuea and in one of the villages next to it, weddings seem to be a loud affair. They are usually accompanied by a big set of speakers and a really bad singer and stand up comedian(?) everyone tends to ignore. Dancing is very simple, involving mostly hand movement and stepping in a circle. In Muang Ngoi it was nice, as huge amounts of people participated. Many tourists complained of the noise, but once it was gone, the village seemed to be a sadder place at night.
Everywhere in Laos everyone seems to be getting married. I guess the cool and dry season is the best time for it. Weddings are usually a two days affair. In Moang Ngoi Nuea and in one of the villages next to it, weddings seem to be a loud affair. They are usually accompanied by a big set of speakers and a really bad singer and stand up comedian(?) everyone tends to ignore. Dancing is very simple, involving mostly hand movement and stepping in a circle. In Muang Ngoi it was nice, as huge amounts of people participated. Many tourists complained of the noise, but once it was gone, the village seemed to be a sadder place at night.
Winter season
They call this time of the year the cool and dry season, because the weather is much more comfortable. Yeah right. Comfortable until you head North and then freeze. Everywhere I went I froze my majestic bum. I didn't sleep too well and skimped on cold showers, that are not that easy on a slightly warm day. At least now in Luang Prabang the weather is more comfortable, and also the temperature seems to go up a bit.
On a more serious note, I knew what I was heading for. Nevertheless, when we went trekking from Luang Nam Tha, the places where we slept at night were not adequately equipped and we barely managed to have a good night sleep. The positive sides are the lack of mosquitoes, the lack of rain and that I can use the same clothes for a week straight cause I don't sweat. On the other hand, maybe I shouldn't have written that.
They call this time of the year the cool and dry season, because the weather is much more comfortable. Yeah right. Comfortable until you head North and then freeze. Everywhere I went I froze my majestic bum. I didn't sleep too well and skimped on cold showers, that are not that easy on a slightly warm day. At least now in Luang Prabang the weather is more comfortable, and also the temperature seems to go up a bit.
On a more serious note, I knew what I was heading for. Nevertheless, when we went trekking from Luang Nam Tha, the places where we slept at night were not adequately equipped and we barely managed to have a good night sleep. The positive sides are the lack of mosquitoes, the lack of rain and that I can use the same clothes for a week straight cause I don't sweat. On the other hand, maybe I shouldn't have written that.
Sunday, December 17, 2006
Sandals, flip flops and the toes between
Yet another equipment tip
I took Source Vagabond sandals with me. The problem is that they are quite heavy and take time to dry. Someone back home recommended me to take Crocs with me instead (and I didn't listen). I needed somewhere more practical to wear for showers, so I had to buy flip flops here. You still need sandals for hot regions and for water activities. If you have no problem with the Crocs phenomenon or the Crocs themselves, it seems like the best option for me.
Yet another equipment tip
I took Source Vagabond sandals with me. The problem is that they are quite heavy and take time to dry. Someone back home recommended me to take Crocs with me instead (and I didn't listen). I needed somewhere more practical to wear for showers, so I had to buy flip flops here. You still need sandals for hot regions and for water activities. If you have no problem with the Crocs phenomenon or the Crocs themselves, it seems like the best option for me.
Recommend place to stay and eat in Chiang Mai: Grace house. The staff doesn't speak English too well, the manager tries to do a thousand things at the same time, but there is healthy food around (Whole wheat, oat, etc.) and Indian food, if you really can't live without. The room is not perfect, the food is not the cheapest (nor the most expensive) but I really liked the place and the area.
It is on Soi 9, off Moon Muang road.
It is on Soi 9, off Moon Muang road.
Oh my Buddha!
A story from Thailand I didn't write yet. On the 12th of December I went trekking for three days in the Doi (Moutain) Inthanon natural reserve. The advertisements look promising: "Come with us for elephant riding, bamboo rafting and observe the authentic long-neck, big ears, huge teeth and longed nose original hill-tribe in a non-touristic region" (Exaggerated a bit for creating an interesting story telling atmosphere). I was sceptical, but after receiving recommendations from a famous world traveler, I booked the trek.
We were five people on the first day, three on the second and four on the last. Interesting, huh? Each company has several trekking options for each area, which differ by the number of days and activities involved (kayaking, hiking, and more). Therefore they mix and match the participants, sharing one guide as much as possible.
The bottom line is that I really liked the whole thing. The elephant riding was very nice, as I've never done it before. Yes, it does feel like a Disney ride, but the poor elephant is amazing! It is huge! Even a model human specimen like me looked small compared to it (Exaggerated a bit too, just a bit, really).
The trekking itself was very interesting. Walking in the jungle was different from walking in Nepal nature. We had some pretty narrow paths to cross, sometimes blocked by spider webs. We stopped by waterfalls and small ponds to swim in ice cold water. The good thing is that once you get out it is warm. Nights were pretty cold though.
Our guide on the first day was Mr. Shawn. He was fine but took the whole tourist-buying-souvenirs thing a little bit too much. He also made us play a simple card game, resulting in coal painted tourists. The next two days we were accompanied with Mr. Paul. A funny young guy, with an accent I found myself using. The difference from Nepal's guides was obvious: The dude was wearing fashionable jeans, belt and sunglasses for the trek! He was kidding a lot and made the trek more enjoyable. He gave us riddles with sticks on the second night (No coal).
The trip was finished with bamboo rafting. I looked forward to a leisure ride, but there were actually rapids! And we were supposed to pass them with a few pieces of wood strapped together?? It was fun, the raft didn't break and all the soldiers arrived home safely Captain!
A story from Thailand I didn't write yet. On the 12th of December I went trekking for three days in the Doi (Moutain) Inthanon natural reserve. The advertisements look promising: "Come with us for elephant riding, bamboo rafting and observe the authentic long-neck, big ears, huge teeth and longed nose original hill-tribe in a non-touristic region" (Exaggerated a bit for creating an interesting story telling atmosphere). I was sceptical, but after receiving recommendations from a famous world traveler, I booked the trek.
We were five people on the first day, three on the second and four on the last. Interesting, huh? Each company has several trekking options for each area, which differ by the number of days and activities involved (kayaking, hiking, and more). Therefore they mix and match the participants, sharing one guide as much as possible.
The bottom line is that I really liked the whole thing. The elephant riding was very nice, as I've never done it before. Yes, it does feel like a Disney ride, but the poor elephant is amazing! It is huge! Even a model human specimen like me looked small compared to it (Exaggerated a bit too, just a bit, really).
The trekking itself was very interesting. Walking in the jungle was different from walking in Nepal nature. We had some pretty narrow paths to cross, sometimes blocked by spider webs. We stopped by waterfalls and small ponds to swim in ice cold water. The good thing is that once you get out it is warm. Nights were pretty cold though.
Our guide on the first day was Mr. Shawn. He was fine but took the whole tourist-buying-souvenirs thing a little bit too much. He also made us play a simple card game, resulting in coal painted tourists. The next two days we were accompanied with Mr. Paul. A funny young guy, with an accent I found myself using. The difference from Nepal's guides was obvious: The dude was wearing fashionable jeans, belt and sunglasses for the trek! He was kidding a lot and made the trek more enjoyable. He gave us riddles with sticks on the second night (No coal).
The trip was finished with bamboo rafting. I looked forward to a leisure ride, but there were actually rapids! And we were supposed to pass them with a few pieces of wood strapped together?? It was fun, the raft didn't break and all the soldiers arrived home safely Captain!
Saturday, December 16, 2006
The Israeli phenomenon
Yes, it is about time I write something about us.
First of all, I heard more than once from other travellers that it seems that half the country is travelling in Asia. I see it as a good characteristic for us, opposite to people who never leave their country. On the other hand, maybe we are so loud so there is no other choice but to notice us.
On the way from Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong we had a stop for lunch. The question of my origin arrived sooner or later. Israeli tourists usually recognize me because of my looks. Locals who need to sell usually recognize me because it is their job. Other tourists have a problem some time, as my accent usually doesn't have the common Israeli accent to it. So I said I was from Israel. The next thing mentioned was the army, which led some guy to throw something about "killing Palestinians". It was annoying for the first moments, but yes, some people hate us, for many reasons, and not necessarily will listen.
On that evening, I scheduled dinner with Christa. When I arrived she was already sitting for a while with the company of people from our ride to Chiang Khong. After they left, she told me that guy told her that he had so many bad experiences with Israelis that he decided not to talk with them. He asked her how on earth she was able to travel with one. She agreed with him about Israeli. Her exposure to Israelis taught her that we are rude, thinking the whole world belongs to us, therefore behaving very bad to service people (I witnessed this terrible behaviour too and I agree on that). But she said she was still open enough to give people a chance, and not close up as this guy did.
Yes, it is about time I write something about us.
First of all, I heard more than once from other travellers that it seems that half the country is travelling in Asia. I see it as a good characteristic for us, opposite to people who never leave their country. On the other hand, maybe we are so loud so there is no other choice but to notice us.
On the way from Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong we had a stop for lunch. The question of my origin arrived sooner or later. Israeli tourists usually recognize me because of my looks. Locals who need to sell usually recognize me because it is their job. Other tourists have a problem some time, as my accent usually doesn't have the common Israeli accent to it. So I said I was from Israel. The next thing mentioned was the army, which led some guy to throw something about "killing Palestinians". It was annoying for the first moments, but yes, some people hate us, for many reasons, and not necessarily will listen.
On that evening, I scheduled dinner with Christa. When I arrived she was already sitting for a while with the company of people from our ride to Chiang Khong. After they left, she told me that guy told her that he had so many bad experiences with Israelis that he decided not to talk with them. He asked her how on earth she was able to travel with one. She agreed with him about Israeli. Her exposure to Israelis taught her that we are rude, thinking the whole world belongs to us, therefore behaving very bad to service people (I witnessed this terrible behaviour too and I agree on that). But she said she was still open enough to give people a chance, and not close up as this guy did.
Huay Xai to Luang Nam Tha
Today I took the "bus" to Luang Nam Tha. The "road" is one big sandy, dusty trail, probably passable only by 4x4 cars and trucks. The only settlements on the way were small villages, with houses made from wood, lots of pigs, chicken, dogs and small children. Part of the "road" was wide but other parts were quite narrow.
The good (also bad) news is that the whole road is one big construction site. It looks like tons of explosives were used to make a path through the jungle. Many Caterpiller vehicles (forgot the words...) dig, pave and prepare the new road. At one point we had to stop because some construction workers dug a hole in the road. Luckily, one construction vehicle made an alternative route for us to pass.
Once we got close to Luang Nam Tha, a brand new road, including sign posts, was waiting for us.
Transportation and communication changed the world. They already have cellphones. I'm certain that this new road will change this area forever.
Now I'm off to the shower to remove about a kilo of dust from myself.
Today I took the "bus" to Luang Nam Tha. The "road" is one big sandy, dusty trail, probably passable only by 4x4 cars and trucks. The only settlements on the way were small villages, with houses made from wood, lots of pigs, chicken, dogs and small children. Part of the "road" was wide but other parts were quite narrow.
The good (also bad) news is that the whole road is one big construction site. It looks like tons of explosives were used to make a path through the jungle. Many Caterpiller vehicles (forgot the words...) dig, pave and prepare the new road. At one point we had to stop because some construction workers dug a hole in the road. Luckily, one construction vehicle made an alternative route for us to pass.
Once we got close to Luang Nam Tha, a brand new road, including sign posts, was waiting for us.
Transportation and communication changed the world. They already have cellphones. I'm certain that this new road will change this area forever.
Now I'm off to the shower to remove about a kilo of dust from myself.
Recommended guest house in Loang Nam Tha, Laos: Zuela.
Brand new place, but already two Israelis managed to spread our good reputation there by smoking Opium and making noise during part of the night.
Update: I talked with the hotel's manager, which gave a different version. The smoking part was true, but she said that they were very nice.
Brand new place, but already two Israelis managed to spread our good reputation there by smoking Opium and making noise during part of the night.
Update: I talked with the hotel's manager, which gave a different version. The smoking part was true, but she said that they were very nice.
Tempting offers
A famous world traveller once said: "anyway, worse thing - you get screwed and you move on.. it's part of travelling (you get to be fucked on daily basis in India)"
When we arrived to Huay Xai we looked for a bus to Luang Nam Tha. We read that the road to Luang Nam Tha was one of the worst, and that the only option to go there is by a public bus (I'm not sure about the boat option). Prepared to face this rough but adventurous option, one travel agency caught us with the possibility to go by a private mini-van for the same price. Tempted by the alternative, we bought our ticket from that agency. The next morning the mini-van was "broken", but we were promised that we will be taken "free" to the bus station and go on a public bus from there. Well, that was what we originally expected, so it was fine with us. (Another Israeli couple just got their money back and went on their own). When the taxi driver dropped us off, it wasn't at the bus station at all. He said that he arranged us a "better" ride to go there.
And so we went to Loang Nam Tha with a truck/bus used to deliver motorcycles to our destination. We were just extra "goods" for delivery and so some people made more money from this fact. But we had a pleasant journey, with a full seat for each person (we were four and one or two people picked up on the way). It was quite fast and comfortable, even more than the mini-van taking us from Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong in Thailand
A famous world traveller once said: "anyway, worse thing - you get screwed and you move on.. it's part of travelling (you get to be fucked on daily basis in India)"
When we arrived to Huay Xai we looked for a bus to Luang Nam Tha. We read that the road to Luang Nam Tha was one of the worst, and that the only option to go there is by a public bus (I'm not sure about the boat option). Prepared to face this rough but adventurous option, one travel agency caught us with the possibility to go by a private mini-van for the same price. Tempted by the alternative, we bought our ticket from that agency. The next morning the mini-van was "broken", but we were promised that we will be taken "free" to the bus station and go on a public bus from there. Well, that was what we originally expected, so it was fine with us. (Another Israeli couple just got their money back and went on their own). When the taxi driver dropped us off, it wasn't at the bus station at all. He said that he arranged us a "better" ride to go there.
And so we went to Loang Nam Tha with a truck/bus used to deliver motorcycles to our destination. We were just extra "goods" for delivery and so some people made more money from this fact. But we had a pleasant journey, with a full seat for each person (we were four and one or two people picked up on the way). It was quite fast and comfortable, even more than the mini-van taking us from Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong in Thailand
Crossing to Laos
Yesterday we (Christa and I) crossed the border to Laos. It was much quicker than I imagined. On the Thai border I said goodbye to my Thailand visa. Then we took a small boat across the Mekong river and after two minutes we were in Laos, in Huay Xai. After changing money I received 960000 kip for 100USD in bills of 10000kip. Too much notes to carry around.
Huay Xai is just two minutes by boat from Thailand, but totally different and yet the same. The road was being paved as we arrived. The houses are from plain wood and look very primitive. On the other hand, similarities exist both in food and language, which makes the transition not so hard. Back to the first hand, I realized I ate as if I'm in Thailand, not being careful about hygiene, which might be completely different.
I went to the Internet cafe in Huay Xai, the only one. The place had one computer connected with a dial-up modem...
Yesterday we (Christa and I) crossed the border to Laos. It was much quicker than I imagined. On the Thai border I said goodbye to my Thailand visa. Then we took a small boat across the Mekong river and after two minutes we were in Laos, in Huay Xai. After changing money I received 960000 kip for 100USD in bills of 10000kip. Too much notes to carry around.
Huay Xai is just two minutes by boat from Thailand, but totally different and yet the same. The road was being paved as we arrived. The houses are from plain wood and look very primitive. On the other hand, similarities exist both in food and language, which makes the transition not so hard. Back to the first hand, I realized I ate as if I'm in Thailand, not being careful about hygiene, which might be completely different.
I went to the Internet cafe in Huay Xai, the only one. The place had one computer connected with a dial-up modem...
Thursday, December 14, 2006
Tips and more
My reply to my friend Carine was quite long and kind of a partial summary for me. So here goes:
The Annapurna Circuit trek, the 20 days version (not the 16). I went to Ghorapani in order to climb Poon Hill and see the Annapurna range (the best view) and finished at a place I don't remember right now. The other option is to finish at Beni. Also remember you might need buffer days if something goes wrong, you need a rest or some place is very nice (such as... damn, forgot!)
Around Pokhara:
I went rafting for three days on the Kali Gandaki river.
I went to Sarangkot before sunrise to see the Annapurna range from another angle. The best views were of the valleys as I've seen the Annapurna range quite a lot. I went back walking, lost the trail, which resulted in interesting experiences along the way. So try to get lost there. You know you need to reach the lakeside and you see it in view all the time.
I went to Devi's falls, missing the entry to its underground parts, which made it quite boring. From there I walked up to the World Peace Pagoda and climbed down the other side, finishing with a kayak ride back to Pokhara.
I went out to the busy bee, the only place which is open late enough.
I rested a lot at the Boomerang restaurant. I'm not sure if their food is good or cheap, but
By the way, now it is mandatory to go trekking with a porter or a guide. I recommend a porter anyhow. Meet him before you go trekking. Ask him if he has good equipment. Chat with him to see how good he knows English, which will contribute a lot to your enjoyment along the trek. My porter knew Hebrew very well too.
Around Kathmandu:
I went to Swayambunath (The monkey temple).
I went to Nagarkot to see the sunrise yet again. The good thing here is that you can see the sunrise from your window and not climb 40 minutes in the darkness. The bad thing is that you can see the sunrise from your window and not climb 40 minutes in a full moon lit sky. Then I tried to walk to Bhaktapur by foot, took a shortcut, which made me lose the trail and end up in a local bus, where I couldn't stand straight. But it was fun (= somewhat scary). I stayed in Bhaktapur for five days, not that you actually need it to see everything around. I just preferred waiting for my flight there.
I went out to G's Terrace, Fullmoon and Lhasa.
Additional things that other people did while I was resting:
The Chitwan national park.
The Langtang trek (a.k.a. The frozen lakes)
Tips:
- When you arrive to Nepal ask for a 60 days visa. For me it cost the same as the 30 days visa. And you might spend 20 days or more on the mountains...
- Try to minimize the amount of time you stay at big cities at first. If you have the option, go out of the city. Escaping Kathmandu to Pokhara was a very good idea. When I came back, it was much easier and even fun!
- Listen to yourself. For the first time you don't have to do everything. If you rather spend the whole day reading, resting, listening the music, do that. Some people hurry up from place to place. If it suits you fine it is OK, but don't do things because you have to. For me it was and still hard, but I get over it. There is always something to see. And the rest will be left for next time.
- Nothing is for free. If someone offers you something for free, it is a scam. You are going to pay, big time. If someone offers you a service, tell them thank you and be assertive about it.
- Don't trek alone with a guide/porter, especially a male guide/porter. First of all, it is always nice to trek with someone, and you don't have to be together the whole day. I used to run forward in the mornings, especially uphill. So I had time to stop whenever I wanted and think/day dream. In the afternoons I used to slow down and join other people for chats. Second, they have their idea of Western women and you are not going to change that. It is mostly because of the movies they see and because some tourists don't bother being informed about a country and its local customs, such as dressing modestly. Oh yeah, local people do take showers at the streets, but that's because they don't have running water at home. And they do it very modest, with their clothes on.
- Helping beggars and the rest. If you seriously want to help, go to the source. Volunteer, buy things for schools, but don't give them money, pens, sweets or balloons. If you buy a meal for one, then more will come, and you are just one person, not a charity organization. You just encourage them to leave whatever useful thing they might do and beg for money.
- Haggai's advice: Acquire late, release early ;-) Try to reasonably delay things until you are sure about them. That way you can leave your options open. Again, always do what's comfortable for you. One example: I bought the huge Lonely Planet India book in the airport back home and I'm not going to use it for following months for sure.
- Do the longest things first, then fill in the rest. The Annapurna circuit trek is a long one and will take a lot of your time.
Equipment, etc. tips
- After my first week in Kathmandu I bought the Lonely Planet book of Nepal. It helped me tremendously. It is very up to date, September 2006, so it helped me get the real value of services. You can also do it on your own, trial and error. It cost me two thirds the price in Israel and I could get back half of it when I returned it (which I didn't).
- You can buy many things in Nepal, Kathmandu and Pokhara. I think I said goodbye to 100$ there just on equipment. I bought walking poles, rain coat (poncho), a serious coat (forgot the name), shrinkage bag, a lock for my bag (I use it more to feel safe that no one messes with my bag while I tie my shoe laces and the likes), a drinking bottle, carbines and I don't remember what else. Just remember that the fact that everyone in Nepal, even the poorest farmer, wears a "The North Face" fleece jacket probably means something. Check the quality with all your senses. Sometimes they can be better than the original and sometimes pretty bad. If you don't want to compromise, there is a real North Face shop in front of the "Fire and Ice" restaurant in Kathmandu. You'll know you got there when you'll see the prices just added a digit or two. It is cheaper than Israel, even half (I could have bought so many things there if I wouldn't have to carry it all), but they might not have your size. (saved me 200NIS :-) ). About sending things home, it is not that cheap. But over weight is more expensive...
- Most of the expensive things you got back home (the towel, quick dry clothes) won't help you much until you go to extremes (temperature, many walking days, etc.). Then their advantage will become evident. It means that for most of your trip, they won't be different than simple equipment :-) But I still don't regret them for a second. Money well spent.
People
- When I arrived I searched for people for a specific task, trekking. It took me a while and wasn't easy. I posted ads at different places, spent time in Israeli joints and harassed poor girls :-) Conclusions: Be attentive to other people's behaviour. If they are looking for someone they'll just behave so. If you are eating alone you can ask another lonely person to join you. The second thing is that if you go to a trek that most people start from Pokhara for example, and not Kathmandu, try searching there. Back to my story: At the end I e-mailed a girl who posted an ad in a Kathmandu Israeli oriented agency and I met her in Pokhara.
- Activities. I know it is a chicken and egg thing, but once you do something, you start to meet a lot of people. Then it just feeds itself somehow. You meet them again at town, go out to dinner with them, meet their friends. It lasts until everybody moves on (To India, SEA, home, etc.), but you might find someone that is heading your way. I didn't get used to it yet, and I might never will, but that's part of it. I had a few waves of saying goodbye to people and then meeting new. The one I liked most was saying goodbye to all the people from the rafting trip in Pokhara and then meeting them again in Kathmandu (Very small city :-) ).
- Go to places where backpackers might stay. Hint: Hilton or Carlton are not one of them.
- How are people? You know, same same but different ;-) If you don't like someone, say goodbye. (And if you love someone set them free). It is not always easy, but that's how it is. (I recall now you actually helped Elinor with that). Being alone is important too. I arrived to Bangkok with a girl. She wanted to move on and I wanted to stay, because it was my first time and because I needed some rest. I had to contemplate what was better, staying alone for now, or moving forward with her. At the end I picked to stay alone.
How am I? You know, as usual. Sometimes happy, sometimes sad. (And when I'm sad, I listen to music (= Do things that I like)). I am not sure I will change, but it is an experience, which I comprehend mostly after I do it.
My reply to my friend Carine was quite long and kind of a partial summary for me. So here goes:
The Annapurna Circuit trek, the 20 days version (not the 16). I went to Ghorapani in order to climb Poon Hill and see the Annapurna range (the best view) and finished at a place I don't remember right now. The other option is to finish at Beni. Also remember you might need buffer days if something goes wrong, you need a rest or some place is very nice (such as... damn, forgot!)
Around Pokhara:
I went rafting for three days on the Kali Gandaki river.
I went to Sarangkot before sunrise to see the Annapurna range from another angle. The best views were of the valleys as I've seen the Annapurna range quite a lot. I went back walking, lost the trail, which resulted in interesting experiences along the way. So try to get lost there. You know you need to reach the lakeside and you see it in view all the time.
I went to Devi's falls, missing the entry to its underground parts, which made it quite boring. From there I walked up to the World Peace Pagoda and climbed down the other side, finishing with a kayak ride back to Pokhara.
I went out to the busy bee, the only place which is open late enough.
I rested a lot at the Boomerang restaurant. I'm not sure if their food is good or cheap, but
By the way, now it is mandatory to go trekking with a porter or a guide. I recommend a porter anyhow. Meet him before you go trekking. Ask him if he has good equipment. Chat with him to see how good he knows English, which will contribute a lot to your enjoyment along the trek. My porter knew Hebrew very well too.
Around Kathmandu:
I went to Swayambunath (The monkey temple).
I went to Nagarkot to see the sunrise yet again. The good thing here is that you can see the sunrise from your window and not climb 40 minutes in the darkness. The bad thing is that you can see the sunrise from your window and not climb 40 minutes in a full moon lit sky. Then I tried to walk to Bhaktapur by foot, took a shortcut, which made me lose the trail and end up in a local bus, where I couldn't stand straight. But it was fun (= somewhat scary). I stayed in Bhaktapur for five days, not that you actually need it to see everything around. I just preferred waiting for my flight there.
I went out to G's Terrace, Fullmoon and Lhasa.
Additional things that other people did while I was resting:
The Chitwan national park.
The Langtang trek (a.k.a. The frozen lakes)
Tips:
- When you arrive to Nepal ask for a 60 days visa. For me it cost the same as the 30 days visa. And you might spend 20 days or more on the mountains...
- Try to minimize the amount of time you stay at big cities at first. If you have the option, go out of the city. Escaping Kathmandu to Pokhara was a very good idea. When I came back, it was much easier and even fun!
- Listen to yourself. For the first time you don't have to do everything. If you rather spend the whole day reading, resting, listening the music, do that. Some people hurry up from place to place. If it suits you fine it is OK, but don't do things because you have to. For me it was and still hard, but I get over it. There is always something to see. And the rest will be left for next time.
- Nothing is for free. If someone offers you something for free, it is a scam. You are going to pay, big time. If someone offers you a service, tell them thank you and be assertive about it.
- Don't trek alone with a guide/porter, especially a male guide/porter. First of all, it is always nice to trek with someone, and you don't have to be together the whole day. I used to run forward in the mornings, especially uphill. So I had time to stop whenever I wanted and think/day dream. In the afternoons I used to slow down and join other people for chats. Second, they have their idea of Western women and you are not going to change that. It is mostly because of the movies they see and because some tourists don't bother being informed about a country and its local customs, such as dressing modestly. Oh yeah, local people do take showers at the streets, but that's because they don't have running water at home. And they do it very modest, with their clothes on.
- Helping beggars and the rest. If you seriously want to help, go to the source. Volunteer, buy things for schools, but don't give them money, pens, sweets or balloons. If you buy a meal for one, then more will come, and you are just one person, not a charity organization. You just encourage them to leave whatever useful thing they might do and beg for money.
- Haggai's advice: Acquire late, release early ;-) Try to reasonably delay things until you are sure about them. That way you can leave your options open. Again, always do what's comfortable for you. One example: I bought the huge Lonely Planet India book in the airport back home and I'm not going to use it for following months for sure.
- Do the longest things first, then fill in the rest. The Annapurna circuit trek is a long one and will take a lot of your time.
Equipment, etc. tips
- After my first week in Kathmandu I bought the Lonely Planet book of Nepal. It helped me tremendously. It is very up to date, September 2006, so it helped me get the real value of services. You can also do it on your own, trial and error. It cost me two thirds the price in Israel and I could get back half of it when I returned it (which I didn't).
- You can buy many things in Nepal, Kathmandu and Pokhara. I think I said goodbye to 100$ there just on equipment. I bought walking poles, rain coat (poncho), a serious coat (forgot the name), shrinkage bag, a lock for my bag (I use it more to feel safe that no one messes with my bag while I tie my shoe laces and the likes), a drinking bottle, carbines and I don't remember what else. Just remember that the fact that everyone in Nepal, even the poorest farmer, wears a "The North Face" fleece jacket probably means something. Check the quality with all your senses. Sometimes they can be better than the original and sometimes pretty bad. If you don't want to compromise, there is a real North Face shop in front of the "Fire and Ice" restaurant in Kathmandu. You'll know you got there when you'll see the prices just added a digit or two. It is cheaper than Israel, even half (I could have bought so many things there if I wouldn't have to carry it all), but they might not have your size. (saved me 200NIS :-) ). About sending things home, it is not that cheap. But over weight is more expensive...
- Most of the expensive things you got back home (the towel, quick dry clothes) won't help you much until you go to extremes (temperature, many walking days, etc.). Then their advantage will become evident. It means that for most of your trip, they won't be different than simple equipment :-) But I still don't regret them for a second. Money well spent.
People
- When I arrived I searched for people for a specific task, trekking. It took me a while and wasn't easy. I posted ads at different places, spent time in Israeli joints and harassed poor girls :-) Conclusions: Be attentive to other people's behaviour. If they are looking for someone they'll just behave so. If you are eating alone you can ask another lonely person to join you. The second thing is that if you go to a trek that most people start from Pokhara for example, and not Kathmandu, try searching there. Back to my story: At the end I e-mailed a girl who posted an ad in a Kathmandu Israeli oriented agency and I met her in Pokhara.
- Activities. I know it is a chicken and egg thing, but once you do something, you start to meet a lot of people. Then it just feeds itself somehow. You meet them again at town, go out to dinner with them, meet their friends. It lasts until everybody moves on (To India, SEA, home, etc.), but you might find someone that is heading your way. I didn't get used to it yet, and I might never will, but that's part of it. I had a few waves of saying goodbye to people and then meeting new. The one I liked most was saying goodbye to all the people from the rafting trip in Pokhara and then meeting them again in Kathmandu (Very small city :-) ).
- Go to places where backpackers might stay. Hint: Hilton or Carlton are not one of them.
- How are people? You know, same same but different ;-) If you don't like someone, say goodbye. (And if you love someone set them free). It is not always easy, but that's how it is. (I recall now you actually helped Elinor with that). Being alone is important too. I arrived to Bangkok with a girl. She wanted to move on and I wanted to stay, because it was my first time and because I needed some rest. I had to contemplate what was better, staying alone for now, or moving forward with her. At the end I picked to stay alone.
How am I? You know, as usual. Sometimes happy, sometimes sad. (And when I'm sad, I listen to music (= Do things that I like)). I am not sure I will change, but it is an experience, which I comprehend mostly after I do it.
Friday, December 08, 2006
James Kim
I used to read his gadget reviews. The story really sounds like it is taken from a movie, except for the lack of a happy end.
I used to read his gadget reviews. The story really sounds like it is taken from a movie, except for the lack of a happy end.
Rain song
I've read there isn't enough rain back home. Maybe this will help...
"Hello
Can you hear me?
Am I gettin' through to you?
Hello
Is it late there?
There's a laughter on the line
Are you sure you're there alone?
Cause I'm
Tryin' to explain
Somethin's wrong
Ya just don't sound the same
Why don't you
Why don't you
Go outside
Go outside
Kiss the rain
Whenever you need me
Kiss the rain
Whenever I'm gone, too long.
If your lips
Feel lonely and thirsty
Kiss the rain
And wait for the dawn.
Keep in mind
We're under the same sky
And the nights
As empty for me, as for you
If ya feel
You can't wait till morinin'
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Hello
Do you miss me?
I hear you say you do
But not the way I'm missin' you
What's new?
How's the weather?
Is it stormy where you are?
Cause you sound so close but it feels like you're so far
Oh would it mean anything
If you knew
What I'm left imagining
In my mind
In my mind
Would you go
Would you go
Kiss the rain
And you'd fall over me
Think of me
Think of me
Think of me
Only me
Kiss the rain
Whenever you need me
Kiss the rain
Whenever I'm gone too long
If your lips
Feel hungry and tempted
Kiss the rain
and wait for the dawn
Keep in mind
We're under the same skies
And the nights
As empty for me, as for you
If you feel
You can't wait till morning
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Oooooohhhhh
Kiss the rain
Oooooohhhhh
Kiss the rain
Hello
Can ya hear me?
Can ya hear me?
Can ya hear me?"
Kiss the rain - Billie Myres
I've read there isn't enough rain back home. Maybe this will help...
"Hello
Can you hear me?
Am I gettin' through to you?
Hello
Is it late there?
There's a laughter on the line
Are you sure you're there alone?
Cause I'm
Tryin' to explain
Somethin's wrong
Ya just don't sound the same
Why don't you
Why don't you
Go outside
Go outside
Kiss the rain
Whenever you need me
Kiss the rain
Whenever I'm gone, too long.
If your lips
Feel lonely and thirsty
Kiss the rain
And wait for the dawn.
Keep in mind
We're under the same sky
And the nights
As empty for me, as for you
If ya feel
You can't wait till morinin'
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Hello
Do you miss me?
I hear you say you do
But not the way I'm missin' you
What's new?
How's the weather?
Is it stormy where you are?
Cause you sound so close but it feels like you're so far
Oh would it mean anything
If you knew
What I'm left imagining
In my mind
In my mind
Would you go
Would you go
Kiss the rain
And you'd fall over me
Think of me
Think of me
Think of me
Only me
Kiss the rain
Whenever you need me
Kiss the rain
Whenever I'm gone too long
If your lips
Feel hungry and tempted
Kiss the rain
and wait for the dawn
Keep in mind
We're under the same skies
And the nights
As empty for me, as for you
If you feel
You can't wait till morning
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Kiss the rain
Oooooohhhhh
Kiss the rain
Oooooohhhhh
Kiss the rain
Hello
Can ya hear me?
Can ya hear me?
Can ya hear me?"
Kiss the rain - Billie Myres
Sunday, December 03, 2006
First thing first
Today, following doctor's orders to rest when you got a cold, I went visiting the local temples: the shopping malls. I must state that this idea was basically suicidal because today was a weekend day and tomorrow is a holiday (Father's day or King's birthday).
The malls are more Western than American malls. It is amazing, both ways. The MBK (Mall of Bangkok) is a huge place. Each floor (there are seven) is dedicated to a few subjects. Some floors have organized stores and some have sort of stalls, which create hundreds of "stores" in the floor. A bit claustrophobic. You need to use your navigation skills. Good thing I lived in, sorry, next to a mall for five years, so I'm quite an expert. Each American food chain has a store or two. Signs direct you to the food court on the fifth floor, but don't worry, there is one on almost every floor!
I went to the fourth floor to look for some electronics. It seems that the only electronic device people use in Bangkok is a cell phone. Tons of shops providing cellphones, cellphone accessories, memory cards for cellphones, everything! Basically it meant a long walk for me in search for other things. Bottom line: Nothing can compare to shopping on the Internet, even back home. I bought just one of the things I actually intended to buy, before my cold crippled me and forced me to go back.
Israeli stories told me to look for the VIP cinema in the MBK. I actually found it but it screened some horror movie. Casino Royale was on the regular cinema.
From there I went by a bridge to Siam Discovery Center and Siam Center. Both have the "mall" look I am used too.
I went to the malls half walking and half of the way by a local bus. It was a bit harder than Kathmandu to find street names. In Kathmandu a street name appears on every store sign. Here a street name appears at corners but, while walking, I could see only signs in Thai. Many people I met don't seem to know English too well. The bus service, on the other hand, was great. Going back took me about five minutes.
My nose is still running. It is easier and cheaper to find a beer here than a pot of tea. The small difference!
Today, following doctor's orders to rest when you got a cold, I went visiting the local temples: the shopping malls. I must state that this idea was basically suicidal because today was a weekend day and tomorrow is a holiday (Father's day or King's birthday).
The malls are more Western than American malls. It is amazing, both ways. The MBK (Mall of Bangkok) is a huge place. Each floor (there are seven) is dedicated to a few subjects. Some floors have organized stores and some have sort of stalls, which create hundreds of "stores" in the floor. A bit claustrophobic. You need to use your navigation skills. Good thing I lived in, sorry, next to a mall for five years, so I'm quite an expert. Each American food chain has a store or two. Signs direct you to the food court on the fifth floor, but don't worry, there is one on almost every floor!
I went to the fourth floor to look for some electronics. It seems that the only electronic device people use in Bangkok is a cell phone. Tons of shops providing cellphones, cellphone accessories, memory cards for cellphones, everything! Basically it meant a long walk for me in search for other things. Bottom line: Nothing can compare to shopping on the Internet, even back home. I bought just one of the things I actually intended to buy, before my cold crippled me and forced me to go back.
Israeli stories told me to look for the VIP cinema in the MBK. I actually found it but it screened some horror movie. Casino Royale was on the regular cinema.
From there I went by a bridge to Siam Discovery Center and Siam Center. Both have the "mall" look I am used too.
I went to the malls half walking and half of the way by a local bus. It was a bit harder than Kathmandu to find street names. In Kathmandu a street name appears on every store sign. Here a street name appears at corners but, while walking, I could see only signs in Thai. Many people I met don't seem to know English too well. The bus service, on the other hand, was great. Going back took me about five minutes.
My nose is still running. It is easier and cheaper to find a beer here than a pot of tea. The small difference!
Saturday, December 02, 2006
Friday, December 01, 2006
One night in Bangkok
This morning I've added one hour and forty five minutes my time, about twenty degrees Celsius and something like 60% humidity. Insane! I was freezing in Nepal, craving for a hot shower, and here my first shower was cold.
We found a place to stay off the main tourist area but went back there as the sun disappeared. It is a madhouse! It looks like some student day festival, but probably every day. Eating in restaurants has just become unnecessary. The food at the stalls is delicious and fast. It is prepared in front of your eyes, so you can see exactly where it comes from. Take rice with sweet and sour vegetables with chicken, prepared in a wok, and it is even healthy. After eating this initial treat, it just became an eat-as-you-walk buffet. Only the night will tell of the consequences.
I am finally starting to feel Asia. The language sounds like what I'm used to from Chinese movies. Very different from Nepali. On the other hand, now I appreciate Nepalis' warmth, compared to what I've met so far (This is just the first day...). This place is also much more touristic, with totally different type of people around, and not for the best.
This post was a bit hasted as I am falling asleep and really wanted to write this down.
This morning I've added one hour and forty five minutes my time, about twenty degrees Celsius and something like 60% humidity. Insane! I was freezing in Nepal, craving for a hot shower, and here my first shower was cold.
We found a place to stay off the main tourist area but went back there as the sun disappeared. It is a madhouse! It looks like some student day festival, but probably every day. Eating in restaurants has just become unnecessary. The food at the stalls is delicious and fast. It is prepared in front of your eyes, so you can see exactly where it comes from. Take rice with sweet and sour vegetables with chicken, prepared in a wok, and it is even healthy. After eating this initial treat, it just became an eat-as-you-walk buffet. Only the night will tell of the consequences.
I am finally starting to feel Asia. The language sounds like what I'm used to from Chinese movies. Very different from Nepali. On the other hand, now I appreciate Nepalis' warmth, compared to what I've met so far (This is just the first day...). This place is also much more touristic, with totally different type of people around, and not for the best.
This post was a bit hasted as I am falling asleep and really wanted to write this down.
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