Back to civi
Oh, it's good to be back. The A/C is powerful, the food is great, the Internet is fast and there are still no rooms in Bangkok. I guess we are still in high season, if not in peak season.
Today I went to whole way from Battambang, Cambodia, to Bangkok, Thailand. I tried to do it myself, without any package, and somehow it all went smoothly. I had to catch a bus in Battambang, without any reserved sit. Throwing the dollars fast at the cashier did the job, but I was lucky there were available seats in the first place. Then I had to stay on the bus until it got to the border (when it says it gets to Poipet, does it actually mean it will bring me to the border in Poipet? Hmmm, good question I forgot to ask). I left Cambodia, walked through loads of casinos to the Thai part and got my visa. Then one tuk-tuk to the bus station, one boiled water made noodles and up on the bus to Bangkok. Bangkok, 19:00, the day is not over yet. I'm at the bus station.
Tauter number 1: "Khao San? 800B"
"No thank you"
Big Taxi driver: "Khao San? 250B"
"No thank you, I'm one"
Tuk tuk driver: "Khao San? 150B"
"No, thank you, how much for a meter taxi?"
"About 140B"
"I'm in" A/C, (fake) leather seat. I'm there.
"How much is it?"
"83B"
"Take a 100B and keep the change"
"Any room available?"
"No"
"Any room available?"
"Yes"
"Oops, shower outside. Hot shower?"
"No"
"Damn! I take it (It's only for one night and I got lucky, it was the last one)"
But, my favorite street food stall is gone. I'm devastated, but no worry, there are others. I tried Singha beer for the first time (made in Thailand). It's good, similar to beer lao (but I can't have any Asian beer being better than beer lao so), but not as good as.
Tomorrow I will start the long journey to the islands. I can't say I'm expecting it (the journey, not the islands). I have to pick between bus, train and a flight. I guess I'll go for the cheaper option (bus), but I'll have to pay with a day of sleep.
Monday, February 19, 2007
Sunday, February 18, 2007
Battambang
I arrived yesterday to Battambang. There isn't much to see, but what I did was very nice.
I wanted to rest today so I took the local tour quite late, around 16:00, when the sunset is around 18:00. Nevertheless, I went on a motorbike with a driver (moto taxi) and he showed me around. The countryside is really close by and the tour was about traveling through country roads, passing fields and villages, and no other tourist in sight. Some of the roads were more trails than actual roads. All the kids around said hello to me all the time and low five-d me while I was on the motorbike (Why not high five? Are you nuts? That's something reserved for Shaq only!). We stopped by one house, walked through its backyard/field, ate loads of fruits (for a small donation of course...) and some rice wine (again!). Then we took advantage of the hammocks around. According to my guide, other than chilling out, the hammocks are used to sleep outside around April, the hottest month of the year, and for the babies, who can be "shaked" to sleep.
After that we went to see the bamboo train. I thought it was a joke, but it is a real thing, used by the villages to get to and from the city and the country side. The "train" is a wood platform, sitting on two hinges with wheels and a small engine connected to one of the hinges. When two trains come from different sides, the lightest one has to be deconstructed and constructed again on the other side. I didn't take a ride because it was too late for traffic back to the city and I had to chart the whole thing. So I just took photos and played some coconut football with the kids.
The guide introduced me to the term: "Cambodian snow", so now I have a name to what I'm covered for the last five days. If you haven't figured it out yet, it's dust.
I arrived yesterday to Battambang. There isn't much to see, but what I did was very nice.
I wanted to rest today so I took the local tour quite late, around 16:00, when the sunset is around 18:00. Nevertheless, I went on a motorbike with a driver (moto taxi) and he showed me around. The countryside is really close by and the tour was about traveling through country roads, passing fields and villages, and no other tourist in sight. Some of the roads were more trails than actual roads. All the kids around said hello to me all the time and low five-d me while I was on the motorbike (Why not high five? Are you nuts? That's something reserved for Shaq only!). We stopped by one house, walked through its backyard/field, ate loads of fruits (for a small donation of course...) and some rice wine (again!). Then we took advantage of the hammocks around. According to my guide, other than chilling out, the hammocks are used to sleep outside around April, the hottest month of the year, and for the babies, who can be "shaked" to sleep.
After that we went to see the bamboo train. I thought it was a joke, but it is a real thing, used by the villages to get to and from the city and the country side. The "train" is a wood platform, sitting on two hinges with wheels and a small engine connected to one of the hinges. When two trains come from different sides, the lightest one has to be deconstructed and constructed again on the other side. I didn't take a ride because it was too late for traffic back to the city and I had to chart the whole thing. So I just took photos and played some coconut football with the kids.
The guide introduced me to the term: "Cambodian snow", so now I have a name to what I'm covered for the last five days. If you haven't figured it out yet, it's dust.
What do you do?
Some thoughts about begging.
Disclaimer: The following is based on information and experiences I collected and my personal opinion. I might be totally wrong about the facts, and in some points, I wish I were.
Angkor raised up the whole begging issue again for me. One worker at a temple told me she doesn't get enough money at her job. But if she could buy a book and learn some English, she could work in a hotel, where the salary is much better. She needs that money because her father died two months ago, her mother is blind and her brother and sister are younger than her and still at school, so she funds the whole family. Righhhhhhtttt... Part of it might be true, where she will get better money at a hotel if she would know English better, but I'm not sure about the rest. I told it to somebody and he told me he heard this story more than once. So what do you do?
Let's see: first there are those who just ask for money. Do you give it?
It is not obvious. For example, in Kathmandu, Nepal, kids on the street ask for money or food. There are orphanages and shelters in Kathmandu. By giving money to a kid you give him a good excuse to stay in the street and not go back to a place, which will probably take better care of him. In Cambodia, on the other hand, I'm not sure there is any well fare system (Anyone knows about a country without a well fare minister?). There are lots of amputees in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap asking for money, so giving it to them might really help. But watch out with the kids again, they might not actually see the money because someone else sent them to beg for it, so here it is maybe better to buy them a meal. So what do you do?
Let's say that you want to discourage giving money for free, but use it to trade for a product. I find it also educating, other than giving it for free. Now you are in Angkor. How about those kids selling T-shirts? Aren't they supposed to be at school right now or working on their home works? Ok, off with that. But here's a band of land mine victims playing music and selling CDs. Buying music from them would surely makes a proper donation. Great! But on the next temple there is another band, and on the next one yet another! What do you do?
In this case I say that you should remember that, unless your name is Bill or Malinda, you are not a charity organization but a single person charity unit. So you should donate accordingly.
What do I do? Good question!
Some thoughts about begging.
Disclaimer: The following is based on information and experiences I collected and my personal opinion. I might be totally wrong about the facts, and in some points, I wish I were.
Angkor raised up the whole begging issue again for me. One worker at a temple told me she doesn't get enough money at her job. But if she could buy a book and learn some English, she could work in a hotel, where the salary is much better. She needs that money because her father died two months ago, her mother is blind and her brother and sister are younger than her and still at school, so she funds the whole family. Righhhhhhtttt... Part of it might be true, where she will get better money at a hotel if she would know English better, but I'm not sure about the rest. I told it to somebody and he told me he heard this story more than once. So what do you do?
Let's see: first there are those who just ask for money. Do you give it?
It is not obvious. For example, in Kathmandu, Nepal, kids on the street ask for money or food. There are orphanages and shelters in Kathmandu. By giving money to a kid you give him a good excuse to stay in the street and not go back to a place, which will probably take better care of him. In Cambodia, on the other hand, I'm not sure there is any well fare system (Anyone knows about a country without a well fare minister?). There are lots of amputees in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap asking for money, so giving it to them might really help. But watch out with the kids again, they might not actually see the money because someone else sent them to beg for it, so here it is maybe better to buy them a meal. So what do you do?
Let's say that you want to discourage giving money for free, but use it to trade for a product. I find it also educating, other than giving it for free. Now you are in Angkor. How about those kids selling T-shirts? Aren't they supposed to be at school right now or working on their home works? Ok, off with that. But here's a band of land mine victims playing music and selling CDs. Buying music from them would surely makes a proper donation. Great! But on the next temple there is another band, and on the next one yet another! What do you do?
In this case I say that you should remember that, unless your name is Bill or Malinda, you are not a charity organization but a single person charity unit. So you should donate accordingly.
What do I do? Good question!
Saturday, February 17, 2007
Boat trip from Siem Reap to Battambang
Yes, again on a boat, again on a big, hot river. Haven't I done it before? Won't it be the same?
I took the boat trip according to Lonely Planet's recommendation for a scenic ride and it was so. The floating villages were more or less the same as in Vietnam, but I did find some interesting things. I've seen a floating school and a floating church. There were also interesting fish nets, with a huge bamboo device to put and pull it out of the water. The boat was also more comfortable than previous ones, because the benches had good padding.
Lonely Planet also wrote that the trip might be longer in the dry season due to the low level of water. But the Cambodians know what they are doing, right? Apparently they do (money?). Once we got to the narrow parts of the river the trip became annoyingly slow and the lack of wind didn't help much at the current temperature. The boat driver went slow while another guy used a row to push the boat away from the river's banks, not always with success. After a while we stopped and two pickup cars arrived to pick around forty people, with their luggage. So we were hauled eighteen people in a pickup all the way to Battambang. Not fun!
Yes, again on a boat, again on a big, hot river. Haven't I done it before? Won't it be the same?
I took the boat trip according to Lonely Planet's recommendation for a scenic ride and it was so. The floating villages were more or less the same as in Vietnam, but I did find some interesting things. I've seen a floating school and a floating church. There were also interesting fish nets, with a huge bamboo device to put and pull it out of the water. The boat was also more comfortable than previous ones, because the benches had good padding.
Lonely Planet also wrote that the trip might be longer in the dry season due to the low level of water. But the Cambodians know what they are doing, right? Apparently they do (money?). Once we got to the narrow parts of the river the trip became annoyingly slow and the lack of wind didn't help much at the current temperature. The boat driver went slow while another guy used a row to push the boat away from the river's banks, not always with success. After a while we stopped and two pickup cars arrived to pick around forty people, with their luggage. So we were hauled eighteen people in a pickup all the way to Battambang. Not fun!
Happy new lunar year!
Today is the Chinese new lunar year and the Vietnamese new year as well (Called "Tet", same calendar). If I'm not mistaken this year is the year of the pig (mmmm.... pig... Steamed rice with sweet and sour with pork, mmmm....).
Not such a big party around here in Battambang, Cambodia, except for some fireworks and firecrackers exploding for hours. Not too many Chinese here I guess.
Today is the Chinese new lunar year and the Vietnamese new year as well (Called "Tet", same calendar). If I'm not mistaken this year is the year of the pig (mmmm.... pig... Steamed rice with sweet and sour with pork, mmmm....).
Not such a big party around here in Battambang, Cambodia, except for some fireworks and firecrackers exploding for hours. Not too many Chinese here I guess.
Angkor
The biggest attraction in South East Asia and the biggest tourists circus of all. Almost every possible mean of transportation, starting from bicycles to buses, horse carriages, elephants and one big balloon.
Money
Prepare your wallet, for the divine expenses!
40$ for three days pass
Transportation
Day 1 - Tuk tuk for 10$. Overkill, should have taken a moto for 7$ (motorbike taxi).
Day 2 - Moto for 9$. The guy tried to rip me off in the middle, asking for more money for the sunset and for the tour. He didn't get it.
Day 3 - I went for a distant temple, so I had to take a tuk tuk. I took the same one as on the first day for 16$. He was very nice and no money problems. His number is 0987, if you happen to be in Popular guest house.
Food
You'll never go hungry. 2-3$ for a dish in a simple restaurant, a bit expensive. Ice creams, pineapples and cold drinks ("Hello mister, buy cold drink mister?") everywhere.
Watch out! It's hot and humid. Take your time and have lots of breaks.
My story
Day 1 - The general idea of buying a three days ticket was to take it easy. On the first day I managed quite well. I started with Angkor Thom (Saving Angkor wat for the afternoon) and I've seen inside the Bayon (from which I parted with "I'll be back"), the terrace of the elephants, the terrace of the leper king, the Bahpuon and Phimeanakas. After lunch I went to Angkor wat and spent the whole afternoon, including the sunset, over there. Angkor wat is huge and takes time exploring. It has lots of bas-reliefs (stone inscriptions) surrounding it. And I needed the rest.
Day 2 - Baksei Chamkrong, Thommanon, Ta Keo, Ta Prohm, East Mebon, Ta Som, Preah Neak Pean and Preah Khan. Getting the idea? I was done for by the end of that day, totally exhausted . No strength for sunset, not to mention that I really didn't want to give that guy extra money.
Day 3 - I started at noon, after resting from the previous day. I went to a far away temple, Banteay Srei. The bumpy ride made me tired again. It was nice, but not such a big deal. I went back to see Banteay Sarem, Banteay Kdei, which I skipped the day before, the bayon again (I promised!) and Phnom Bakheng with a whole lot of tourists for sunset.
My personal impression - I'm not into old buildings too much but there were a few things that did catch me:
These things survived a thousand years, they should get a credit for that.
Exploring the temples had an inevitable "Indiana Jones" feeling. I just missed the hat and the whip...
Size matters. Some of the structure were amazingly huge. The kings that days knew their job.
Finally, my favorites:
1. The bayon, because the big brother(s) is(are) watching.
2. Angkor Wat, because size matters.
3. Preah Khan, because it looks innocent from outside until you start exploring it and realize how big it is.
Ok ok, Ta Prohm too, because trees coming out of buildings are neat.
The biggest attraction in South East Asia and the biggest tourists circus of all. Almost every possible mean of transportation, starting from bicycles to buses, horse carriages, elephants and one big balloon.
Money
Prepare your wallet, for the divine expenses!
40$ for three days pass
Transportation
Day 1 - Tuk tuk for 10$. Overkill, should have taken a moto for 7$ (motorbike taxi).
Day 2 - Moto for 9$. The guy tried to rip me off in the middle, asking for more money for the sunset and for the tour. He didn't get it.
Day 3 - I went for a distant temple, so I had to take a tuk tuk. I took the same one as on the first day for 16$. He was very nice and no money problems. His number is 0987, if you happen to be in Popular guest house.
Food
You'll never go hungry. 2-3$ for a dish in a simple restaurant, a bit expensive. Ice creams, pineapples and cold drinks ("Hello mister, buy cold drink mister?") everywhere.
Watch out! It's hot and humid. Take your time and have lots of breaks.
My story
Day 1 - The general idea of buying a three days ticket was to take it easy. On the first day I managed quite well. I started with Angkor Thom (Saving Angkor wat for the afternoon) and I've seen inside the Bayon (from which I parted with "I'll be back"), the terrace of the elephants, the terrace of the leper king, the Bahpuon and Phimeanakas. After lunch I went to Angkor wat and spent the whole afternoon, including the sunset, over there. Angkor wat is huge and takes time exploring. It has lots of bas-reliefs (stone inscriptions) surrounding it. And I needed the rest.
Day 2 - Baksei Chamkrong, Thommanon, Ta Keo, Ta Prohm, East Mebon, Ta Som, Preah Neak Pean and Preah Khan. Getting the idea? I was done for by the end of that day, totally exhausted . No strength for sunset, not to mention that I really didn't want to give that guy extra money.
Day 3 - I started at noon, after resting from the previous day. I went to a far away temple, Banteay Srei. The bumpy ride made me tired again. It was nice, but not such a big deal. I went back to see Banteay Sarem, Banteay Kdei, which I skipped the day before, the bayon again (I promised!) and Phnom Bakheng with a whole lot of tourists for sunset.
My personal impression - I'm not into old buildings too much but there were a few things that did catch me:
These things survived a thousand years, they should get a credit for that.
Exploring the temples had an inevitable "Indiana Jones" feeling. I just missed the hat and the whip...
Size matters. Some of the structure were amazingly huge. The kings that days knew their job.
Finally, my favorites:
1. The bayon, because the big brother(s) is(are) watching.
2. Angkor Wat, because size matters.
3. Preah Khan, because it looks innocent from outside until you start exploring it and realize how big it is.
Ok ok, Ta Prohm too, because trees coming out of buildings are neat.
Monday, February 12, 2007
Khmer Rouge
From 1975 to 1979, the Khmer Rouge, headed by brother number 1, Pol Pot, tried to create an equal, ignorant, peasant based society. In order to accomplish that they had to get rid of all the people who weren't, such as scholars, teachers and other educated people. For that they created interrogation and torture camps. The survivors of these places and others were brutally killed and buried in mass graves at places who were known after as killing fields. For more info, check here.
Today I went to see Choeung Ek killing fields and Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum to learn about their recent cruel history. It also gave me a little reminder that it's about time I do that concerning my history.
From 1975 to 1979, the Khmer Rouge, headed by brother number 1, Pol Pot, tried to create an equal, ignorant, peasant based society. In order to accomplish that they had to get rid of all the people who weren't, such as scholars, teachers and other educated people. For that they created interrogation and torture camps. The survivors of these places and others were brutally killed and buried in mass graves at places who were known after as killing fields. For more info, check here.
Today I went to see Choeung Ek killing fields and Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum to learn about their recent cruel history. It also gave me a little reminder that it's about time I do that concerning my history.
Sunday, February 11, 2007
It's a small world after all
Today was a more relaxed day for me. I stayed in bed for a while, resulting in being less tired today. I tried to get into the royal palace, but it was already closed. So I walked, looking for a place to sit, when I stumbled about a beauty saloon. What can be better than finally getting that manicure done? You're serious!? I got my hair cut and now my total body temperature is lower.
After a while I went to the royal palace when nature called and I went to the men's room. Surprise! I met two hot models waiting for me inside! honest! What actually happened is that I met Zack and his girlfriend Shannon (She wasn't in the men's room, calm down). I have been with them on and off since Laos. Meeting people I know in the men's room usually happens back home, not in different countries around the world.
After the royal palace we went to the see a sunset over the lake from a wooden balcony on one of the dozen guest house spread across the lake. Tomorrow each of us go on their separate ways and all that is left to wonder is when we will meet again.
Today was a more relaxed day for me. I stayed in bed for a while, resulting in being less tired today. I tried to get into the royal palace, but it was already closed. So I walked, looking for a place to sit, when I stumbled about a beauty saloon. What can be better than finally getting that manicure done? You're serious!? I got my hair cut and now my total body temperature is lower.
After a while I went to the royal palace when nature called and I went to the men's room. Surprise! I met two hot models waiting for me inside! honest! What actually happened is that I met Zack and his girlfriend Shannon (She wasn't in the men's room, calm down). I have been with them on and off since Laos. Meeting people I know in the men's room usually happens back home, not in different countries around the world.
After the royal palace we went to the see a sunset over the lake from a wooden balcony on one of the dozen guest house spread across the lake. Tomorrow each of us go on their separate ways and all that is left to wonder is when we will meet again.
Cambodia
10 Feb - Crossing to Cambodia, an unpleasant ride, made better with the company of John, Sunna and Alice from Korea.
11 Feb - Slow day, waking up late, walking to royal palace, which was closed, getting a hair cut, moving back to the museum an surprise! I met Zack and Shannon again, in the men's room (Only Zack was there, don't get excited...). We went to the lake (forgot his name) and watched the sunset. Until next time...
12 Feb - Choeung Ek killing fields and Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
13 Feb - Bus to Siem Reap
14-16 Feb - The Angkor experience
17 Feb (Happy new Chinese year) - Boat trip to Battambang
18 Feb - A leisurely day in Battambang and a countryside tour on a motorbike, including the fruit village and the bamboo train.
19 Feb - Crossing to Thailand, a multi-buses adventure.
10 Feb - Crossing to Cambodia, an unpleasant ride, made better with the company of John, Sunna and Alice from Korea.
11 Feb - Slow day, waking up late, walking to royal palace, which was closed, getting a hair cut, moving back to the museum an surprise! I met Zack and Shannon again, in the men's room (Only Zack was there, don't get excited...). We went to the lake (forgot his name) and watched the sunset. Until next time...
12 Feb - Choeung Ek killing fields and Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
13 Feb - Bus to Siem Reap
14-16 Feb - The Angkor experience
17 Feb (Happy new Chinese year) - Boat trip to Battambang
18 Feb - A leisurely day in Battambang and a countryside tour on a motorbike, including the fruit village and the bamboo train.
19 Feb - Crossing to Thailand, a multi-buses adventure.
Yet another Asian country
Yesterday I arrived to Phnom Penh, Cambodia's capital. It is a new country for me, so it different and yet the same. The bad road we took reminded me of Laos, the language written looks like Thai and the traffic reminds that of Vietnam. I believe I'm beginning to have enough of it for now.
I don't have much time left in Asia and thus the will to really get into the culture is not as strong as before. In addition, traveling in Vietnam made me tired and coming back to the heat and humidity doesn't help either. I'll try to take it easy and find a nice spot for a much needed rest, but if I won't, I think I will rush through things here and go to Thailand for some islands resting.
Today I'm looking around the city, in a very slow pace. I looked for a place to sit when I stumbled upon a beauty saloon. I didn't go for a manicure but I finally got my hair cut.
I took a two days tour to arrive to Cambodia. On the first day we saw some Mekong delta life. As it happens most of the time, watching the local lives from the boat was much interesting than the tourist oriented places we stopped where everything is oriented towards your wallet. On the first day we saw a floating market. After stopping for the night at Chau Doc, a Vietnamese town, we went the next day to see a floating village. Then we took a boat to the border, arranged our visas and took another boat and a bus to get to Phnom Penh. It was a long day.
Yesterday I arrived to Phnom Penh, Cambodia's capital. It is a new country for me, so it different and yet the same. The bad road we took reminded me of Laos, the language written looks like Thai and the traffic reminds that of Vietnam. I believe I'm beginning to have enough of it for now.
I don't have much time left in Asia and thus the will to really get into the culture is not as strong as before. In addition, traveling in Vietnam made me tired and coming back to the heat and humidity doesn't help either. I'll try to take it easy and find a nice spot for a much needed rest, but if I won't, I think I will rush through things here and go to Thailand for some islands resting.
Today I'm looking around the city, in a very slow pace. I looked for a place to sit when I stumbled upon a beauty saloon. I didn't go for a manicure but I finally got my hair cut.
I took a two days tour to arrive to Cambodia. On the first day we saw some Mekong delta life. As it happens most of the time, watching the local lives from the boat was much interesting than the tourist oriented places we stopped where everything is oriented towards your wallet. On the first day we saw a floating market. After stopping for the night at Chau Doc, a Vietnamese town, we went the next day to see a floating village. Then we took a boat to the border, arranged our visas and took another boat and a bus to get to Phnom Penh. It was a long day.
Wednesday, February 07, 2007
(Hastened) Summary time - Vietnam
Tomorrow I'll be heading towards the Mekong river delta. After that I'll be taken by boat to Cambodia and leave Vietnam. This will end 29 days (I didn't check when I got the actual visa expiry date, it was supposed to be 30!) of my stay in Vietnam. I'll try to summarize some of my impressions.
My initial encounters with Vietnamese were unpleasant. They weren't as nice as Lao people. They are very aggressive in trying to sell (giving a very strong, "walking ATM" feeling) and they have less personal space than us. They don't hesitate to touch or grab you, which doesn't always evoke nice reactions (Luckily as a deadly machine I was also taught restraint, saving many Vietnamese from my lethal blows. Yes, I saw the wrong movies as a kid). But slowly, like a hard nut, I discovered also nice people, eager to talk and learn about others. My initial purchase of a Vietnamese phrasebook proved itself again and again, as speaking their language is an excellent ice-breaker. I also have to thank Shiran, a guy I was travelling with for a while, who spent a lot of time trying to speak Vietnamese with the locals and did it quite well. That helped in learning the language, and it is the first country I can actually say whole sentences (not that it means that the Vietnamese manage to understand me).
Vietnam landscape is a lot about water, significantly more compared to Laos. Its rice paddies are flooded with water and the farmers wade their way knee deep tending the crops. Other than that there are huge plains, totally flat and sometimes accompanied by karsts. Or mountains and hills as you get farther from the sea.
Vietnam is much more in the process of becoming Western than other countries I've seen. The kids spend their spare time at Internet cafes, playing online games. The grown ups dress like we do, tight and exposed. I've seen gyms, fancy cars, fancy people, fancy mobiles and a lot of inner tourism.
As inevitable as beer lao in Laos were bia hoi (fresh beer) mostly in the North and coffee everywhere. I'm not much of a beer or coffee drinker back home, but coffee here was inevitable, as I was looking for relaxing moments in the chaos. When I've reached Ho Chi Minh city, the hot coffee was replaced with ice coffee, prepared the same way but poured to a glass full of ice.
Traveling in Vietnam is a 1700km journey from North to South with many stops along the way. It means that I had to discover new places quite a lot. I realized that sometimes I have a 'click' with a place and sometimes I don't, or that it just takes more time. Each time it is a collection of experiences. Arriving to Hanoi was very hard, but I managed to like it and discover its sweet spots. Ho Chi Minh city and me had an instant 'click'. The place has a nice beat to it, despite the double volume of traffic (and people) compared to Hanoi. In Dalat I had a hard time finding my nice cheap places to eat, and in Nha Trang I had in the corners of one junction all the cheap food I wanted: Pho Bo (Noodle soup with beef), Com tam (Rice with meat, I still not sure which), Kem (Ice cream) and Binh Mi (Baguettes usually filled with meat, omelette or cheese).
I used the alarm clock on this trip quite a lot. First, because of a lot of early morning rides. Second, because there are organized tours everywhere, which are a very tempting option, and because doing it yourself can be, sometimes, very hard. In some places I just took a map and walked around or a motorbike taxi for one place to another. In others I just took a private tour, a guy on motorbike who showed me around, but I was (trying to) dictate the time and places. For the rest, it was either tempting joining the crowds or just easier, as 'school trips' usually are. There is also a big benefit than the do it yourself way, you get to meet people.
Every men in Vietnam smokes and everywhere. It is uncommon among women, but I managed to see one or two. For me it was quite disturbing and somewhat of a problem when I was looking for relaxed places other than my room.
I met many tourists who said they are definitely not coming again to Vietnam but they would come back to Laos. Me? If I'll go back to Laos, I'll definitely go back to Vietnam too.
Tomorrow I'll be heading towards the Mekong river delta. After that I'll be taken by boat to Cambodia and leave Vietnam. This will end 29 days (I didn't check when I got the actual visa expiry date, it was supposed to be 30!) of my stay in Vietnam. I'll try to summarize some of my impressions.
My initial encounters with Vietnamese were unpleasant. They weren't as nice as Lao people. They are very aggressive in trying to sell (giving a very strong, "walking ATM" feeling) and they have less personal space than us. They don't hesitate to touch or grab you, which doesn't always evoke nice reactions (Luckily as a deadly machine I was also taught restraint, saving many Vietnamese from my lethal blows. Yes, I saw the wrong movies as a kid). But slowly, like a hard nut, I discovered also nice people, eager to talk and learn about others. My initial purchase of a Vietnamese phrasebook proved itself again and again, as speaking their language is an excellent ice-breaker. I also have to thank Shiran, a guy I was travelling with for a while, who spent a lot of time trying to speak Vietnamese with the locals and did it quite well. That helped in learning the language, and it is the first country I can actually say whole sentences (not that it means that the Vietnamese manage to understand me).
Vietnam landscape is a lot about water, significantly more compared to Laos. Its rice paddies are flooded with water and the farmers wade their way knee deep tending the crops. Other than that there are huge plains, totally flat and sometimes accompanied by karsts. Or mountains and hills as you get farther from the sea.
Vietnam is much more in the process of becoming Western than other countries I've seen. The kids spend their spare time at Internet cafes, playing online games. The grown ups dress like we do, tight and exposed. I've seen gyms, fancy cars, fancy people, fancy mobiles and a lot of inner tourism.
As inevitable as beer lao in Laos were bia hoi (fresh beer) mostly in the North and coffee everywhere. I'm not much of a beer or coffee drinker back home, but coffee here was inevitable, as I was looking for relaxing moments in the chaos. When I've reached Ho Chi Minh city, the hot coffee was replaced with ice coffee, prepared the same way but poured to a glass full of ice.
Traveling in Vietnam is a 1700km journey from North to South with many stops along the way. It means that I had to discover new places quite a lot. I realized that sometimes I have a 'click' with a place and sometimes I don't, or that it just takes more time. Each time it is a collection of experiences. Arriving to Hanoi was very hard, but I managed to like it and discover its sweet spots. Ho Chi Minh city and me had an instant 'click'. The place has a nice beat to it, despite the double volume of traffic (and people) compared to Hanoi. In Dalat I had a hard time finding my nice cheap places to eat, and in Nha Trang I had in the corners of one junction all the cheap food I wanted: Pho Bo (Noodle soup with beef), Com tam (Rice with meat, I still not sure which), Kem (Ice cream) and Binh Mi (Baguettes usually filled with meat, omelette or cheese).
I used the alarm clock on this trip quite a lot. First, because of a lot of early morning rides. Second, because there are organized tours everywhere, which are a very tempting option, and because doing it yourself can be, sometimes, very hard. In some places I just took a map and walked around or a motorbike taxi for one place to another. In others I just took a private tour, a guy on motorbike who showed me around, but I was (trying to) dictate the time and places. For the rest, it was either tempting joining the crowds or just easier, as 'school trips' usually are. There is also a big benefit than the do it yourself way, you get to meet people.
Every men in Vietnam smokes and everywhere. It is uncommon among women, but I managed to see one or two. For me it was quite disturbing and somewhat of a problem when I was looking for relaxed places other than my room.
I met many tourists who said they are definitely not coming again to Vietnam but they would come back to Laos. Me? If I'll go back to Laos, I'll definitely go back to Vietnam too.
Sunday, February 04, 2007
The Vietnam trail
13 Jan - Arrived to Hanoi
14 Jan - Getting my bearings. I went to the water puppet theatre at evening.
15 - 17 Jan - Halong Bay tour
18 Jan - HCM mausoleom and the temple of literature.
19 Jan - Perfume Pagoda tour
20 Jan - The Ethnology museum and bus ride to Ninh Binh
21 Jan - Visiting Tam Coc. Night train to Hue
22 Jan - Hue. Checking the view from the roof bar of a five star hotel.
23 Jan - (Former) Demilitarized Zone tour, including Vinh Moc tunnels, Khe Sanh USA combat base, Ho Chi Minh trail and more. Nothing much to see other than being where history took place and a lovely ride from Dong Ha. Nevertheless, it was my first serious encounter with Vietnam's history.
24 Jan - Perfume River cruise. I visited Thien Mu, two tombs, Tu Duc and Minh Mang, out of the possible four and split from the tour with a motorbike taxi for Hue's citadel.
25 Jan - Bus to Hoi An.
26 - 30 - Resting in Hoi An. I went at nights to a brand new Salsa club and taught the waitresses some salsa and row dancing. The rest of the time they showed me around, taking me to their favorite spots, where tourists are scarce.
31 Jan - Night bus to Nha Trang
1 Feb - Nha Trang sights, Po Nagar Cham towers, the Long Son pagoda with its sitting Buddha and a nice rocky beach, Hon Chong Promontory.
2 Feb - The islands cruise, a.k.a booze cruise.
3 Feb - Bus to Dalat
4 Feb - Private motorbike tour to Bao Dai's summer palace (boring), the crazy house (nice), Datalana falls, Prenn falls , Lang Dinh (the chicken village) and an amazing new pagdoa and a lovely lake nearby.
5 Feb - Visit to Lat village and trekking to Lang Bian mountain (2400m high).
6 Feb - On to Ho Chi Minh city (Saigon)
7 Feb - Dam Sen amusement park
8 Feb - War remnants museum and the reunification palace
9 Feb - Mekong delta tour
10 Feb - Crossing to Cambodia by boat
13 Jan - Arrived to Hanoi
14 Jan - Getting my bearings. I went to the water puppet theatre at evening.
15 - 17 Jan - Halong Bay tour
18 Jan - HCM mausoleom and the temple of literature.
19 Jan - Perfume Pagoda tour
20 Jan - The Ethnology museum and bus ride to Ninh Binh
21 Jan - Visiting Tam Coc. Night train to Hue
22 Jan - Hue. Checking the view from the roof bar of a five star hotel.
23 Jan - (Former) Demilitarized Zone tour, including Vinh Moc tunnels, Khe Sanh USA combat base, Ho Chi Minh trail and more. Nothing much to see other than being where history took place and a lovely ride from Dong Ha. Nevertheless, it was my first serious encounter with Vietnam's history.
24 Jan - Perfume River cruise. I visited Thien Mu, two tombs, Tu Duc and Minh Mang, out of the possible four and split from the tour with a motorbike taxi for Hue's citadel.
25 Jan - Bus to Hoi An.
26 - 30 - Resting in Hoi An. I went at nights to a brand new Salsa club and taught the waitresses some salsa and row dancing. The rest of the time they showed me around, taking me to their favorite spots, where tourists are scarce.
31 Jan - Night bus to Nha Trang
1 Feb - Nha Trang sights, Po Nagar Cham towers, the Long Son pagoda with its sitting Buddha and a nice rocky beach, Hon Chong Promontory.
2 Feb - The islands cruise, a.k.a booze cruise.
3 Feb - Bus to Dalat
4 Feb - Private motorbike tour to Bao Dai's summer palace (boring), the crazy house (nice), Datalana falls, Prenn falls , Lang Dinh (the chicken village) and an amazing new pagdoa and a lovely lake nearby.
5 Feb - Visit to Lat village and trekking to Lang Bian mountain (2400m high).
6 Feb - On to Ho Chi Minh city (Saigon)
7 Feb - Dam Sen amusement park
8 Feb - War remnants museum and the reunification palace
9 Feb - Mekong delta tour
10 Feb - Crossing to Cambodia by boat
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