Rock climbing course - day 3



On this day we practiced multi-pitching. When you climb long stretches of rock, you rope might be too short. Therefore climbing is done in parts, or several pitches. The leader climbs the first pitch, attaching the rope as he goes. At the pitch top, there is anchor, to which the leader attaches himself. Then he starts belaying his partner. The partner is now secured and climbs a regular top rope climb, except that his belayer is at the top. After that, both climbers are at the same anchor and the process repeats at self to the next pitch. Going down is done as in abseiling, where you go down on your own without a belayer.

Practicing on ground the procedure at the anchor took us most of the morning. Then our guide split a grade 5 climb into two pitching by creating an anchor at the middle. The other two guys practiced it and it was already time for lunch. After lunch I went up with the guide. Initially I didn't want to lead after the previous day's experience, but the first pitch seemed easy enough so I decided to give it a try. Important note: It always looks easy when you look at it from below. It is a completely different world when you are actually climbing and your field of view is quite limited, so you don't see all possible hand holds and foot holds.

And so I lead the first pitch (nerve racking!!!), attached myself to the anchor and got the guide up. He led the second pitch and I followed. Initially I didn't believe I could climb it, but I guess I started to get a bit the hang of it. The stress created by your legs is sometimes enough to keep you standing on 'impossible' ledges in the rock. Relieved I went through the whole procedure again and started abseiling down, stopping on the way for a photo. When I touched mother earth's soil, I released the rope, sat on my knees and kissed the ground.

The other guys continued leading and climbing other grades but I was content for the day and settled with just watching and clapping hands. So, I had fun this day, which is a good way to end the course.

Rock climbing course - day 2

Today we did leading. While the two guys with me went leading on grades 5a and 5b, I went on grade 4. It made me realize that what I need in a rock climbing course is how to climb, not the basics for five minutes and then a swim in deep water. While the other guys were improving, me, an old dog, did the grade 4 again and it was still hard as the first time. I also know from other sports where safety is important (e.g. diving) that building a confidence is a very important process. An initial bad experience can make people hate it.

In addition to that I have a sore throat, so, combined with the tension, I felt pretty bad before my leading climb.

Leading a climb is much more intense than a top rope climb. You have to concentrate on your moves and be more careful about them. There is nothing to the feeling of attaching the rope into another bolt in the wall. So I can understand the thrill people get from it. But there is a fine line which separates thrill from suffering, and I was more to the second.

Therefore, in general, I felt quite miserable today. And then I managed to forget all that, and registered for the third day as well, somehow thinking that more climbs would be nice practice. Even more than doing nothing and watching the cliff just stand there. But I have no intention on leading tomorrow. It is too much for my current confidence level.

Rock climbing course - day 1

I can sum this day like this: "What d'f#$% was I thinking to myself?!". Instead of starting climbing on a climbing wall I went today straight for the rocks. I think I should find places to run for physical activity instead...

I am sitting now, bruised, cut, scratched and battered. I've done three climbs out of five and, for the first time for a new kind of sports, I am not enthusiastic about it. When I reached the top, instead of feeling "Yeah, I made it!" I felt more like "For the love of Buddha, get me down, NOW!".

After getting the basic climbing instructions, we started by climbing inside a cave. We had two climbs, graded 5a and 5b (I think it's the French grading system). I imagined climbing as something same as walking up, but with your hands. But the first one, graded 5a, had a crack in the middle, so you had to hold one leg on one side of the crack and the other leg on the other one, not exactly what I had in mind. The second one, graded 5b, ended at the top of a stalactite hanging way above the ground(!). The only way to reach it was to push yourself off a stalagmite, placed about 30-40cm next to the stalactite .

After lunch I was dead tired but we had three more climbs to conquer. This time on a wall of granite. It is much sharper than the limestone the cave is made of, but less slippery. I started with the hardest one, 6a. Climbing should be mostly leg work, but in this climb most of the work was based on hands. I managed to climb the beginning quick, arriving with exhausted hands to the real difficult part. Climbing uses underdeveloped muscles of my hands. As a result I had to take four rests before I barely managed to reach the top, exhausting the guy securing me with the rope too. After standing back on soil, I barely managed to untie my shoe laces, and gave up on the rest.

On a serious note, it was very impressive to see the height I've climbed, but I didn't feel exhilarated. Comparing it to other activities, maybe the fact that we went on these climbs first, which weren't easy for me, were discouraging. I need to start on easier climbs, building strength for the task at hand (pun intended).

The course goes on for two more days. Common sense knocks inside my head and tells me to stop. But my curiosity for knowledge and trying new things ignores it. Therefore I read a bit about what we are going to do tomorrow, leading. When rock climbing you can climb using a "top rope". That means that you climb and the rope secures you if you fall. But how does the rope get there in the first place? Someone, the really first person, climbed and dug bolts into the walls. When a pair climbs, the first climber takes the lead, attaching the rope to the bolts as he climbs up, until he gets to the topmost point. Then the second climber collects the carbines used for attaching the rope, but he does it secured by the first guy. The thing is, that if the lead guy falls, he falls the distance to the last secure point + that distance again as the rope is not secured. Ouch...

See you tomorrow! Hopefully in one piece... ;-)

The art of seasoning - A beginner's guide by a beginner



My regular breakfast, more or less, is a bowl of noodles soup. It usually contains noodles (duh), which come in about three types (Not colon on this keyboard) thin, broad and something in between, a few vegetables, meat, tofu and some broth. The broth is rather tasteless, mostly boiled water. So here drops in the seasoning. Before starting to eat the soup is seasoned and tasted to perfection (ok, to a better taste). Therefore here's a short guide for dummies about what I know. Other than that, the best thing is to go to a locals' stall and eat with them, watching what they do. I once saw a woman having a soup with a totally different color than mine.

The options are
Fish sauce - Made in Thailand, usually with a squid photo on it.
Soy sauce
Chilly sauce - Sometimes even two, a mild version and a sweet version (the one you usually eat with spring rolls)
Sugar, salt
Dry chilly powder
A nasty smelling fish paste - Don't even think about it
Piece of limes
Live chillies - Handle with care! Yesterday I accidentally touched one of my eyes about half an hour after finishing the soup and I couldn't use that eye for next half hour.
Greens - Lettuce, beans and mint leaves.

The tools for slurping the soup are a pair of chopsticks and a spoon.
Bonn Appetite!

Travelling in Laos - Complaint time, and the inevitable comparison to Nepal


1. Although traveling is not as hard as I expected, it does take quite a while in Laos. A journey starts early in the morning and can take several hours. Being a long person, it usually leaves me in quite a tired state, rendering the rest of the day for any other activity other than resting.

2. In Nepal there are two major locations, Kathmandu and Pokhara, which are a base for most activities. Therefore you just need to travel from Kathmandu to Pokhara and back. There are other places to visit of course, but for me the longest ride was between the two. The trip in Laos, on the other hand, and the next countries, is a journey around. Therefore a nice chunk of it is done travelling. The good thing is that now I go through packing and preparing food supplies for the way quite fast. Another good thing is the views and the experiences you have while traveling, like sharing food with people. The bad is that the 30 days visa to Laos is ticking (It can be easily extended but I have another, not flexible visa waiting for me, Australia) and I have to pick my picks.

3. The holiday season.

4. The cool season

Beer Lao (and other unavoidable alcoholic beverages)



It is unavoidable, the T-shirts are everywhere, here comes Beer Lao!

Beer Lao is produced in Lao. I was about to try and work my mind a bit to recall what I know about it, but why bother when I can have another bottle you and refer you to here? It is quite good and very cheap, around a dollar (less in a grocery store) for 640ml. It is a big problem for me as alcohol and me don't mix most of the times. So I keep consumed amounts low. And no, I have no intention of buying a T-shirt, advertising it here is a must because it is part of the experience, but advertising it on a T-shirt is too much for me right now. Anyhow, what else is available?

Dark beer Lao - I haven't tried it yet.
Lao Bia - The only other legal beer in Laos. It is made out of palm sugar and had a sweet taste to it, or that what I vaguely remember. It has an antique looking label, written in French.
Lao Lao - The local produced whisky, made out of sticky rice. It comes in different percents in volume, as it is not scientifically produced in some factory. I can smell it, which says a lot about it (not too strong) and it reminds of the Japanese alcohol drink, Saki, also produced from rice. Almost every trip you'll book will include with a visit to a Lao Lao producing village.

Wedding season - review

I just read yesterday that this is actually the wedding season, no coincidence. I just forgot the exact dates, except for the fact that no weddings at February, the month of the dog (I hope I got that right)

The Laos trail

A short recap of my Laos adventures till now, because the long version is too long for now. Ready, set, go!

15 Dec - Crossed the border to Huay Xay, slept there.
16 Dec - Rickety bus to Luang Nam Tha
17 Dec - Enjoying the silence
18-20 Dec - Nam Ha Forest camp trek
21 Dec - On to Nong Kiahw, but didn't make it. Stuck at Pak Mong for the night.
22 Dec - Arrived to Nong Kiahw and took a boat to Muang Ngoi Nuea.
23 Dec - Said goodbye to Christa for now and enjoyed the silence. Managed to have one hour of hammock time :-(
24 Dec - Walking to the villages around with Zack and Shanon. Met Ivona and Jiska, whom I met on the Annapurna trek in Nepal and in the rafting trip. It is a small world after all. Merry Christmas.
25 Dec - Long long but lovely boat ride to Luang Prabang.
25-29 Dec - Luang Prabang. I met Christa again and we went to see Kuang Si waterfalls (recommended), and up Phu Si hill. The days go too fast...
30 Dec - I said goodbye to Christa yet again and headed to Phonsavan.
31 Dec - I visited the plain of jars with Luke and Valerin (surprise, surprise, from Switzerland, same as Christa) and had a new year's/agency branch opening celebration.
1 Jan - I arrived to Vang Vieng.

Happy new year!

I wish a happy new year, health and happiness to my family and friends!

I celebrated my new year in a cold and gloomy place in Laos, Phonsavan, which is a base for tourists visiting the plain of jars. Nevertheless, in the guest house a new travel agency branch was opened. Therefore, for this new event, a big party was held. The Georgian new year's was added as a party reason (because the official Lao new year is around April). The guests and me were invited. There was a lot of food (I happened to see the exposed innards of a cow(pig?) before it was BBQed) and too much drinks. The Lao kept on pushing the drinks and so at a certain point I had to just touch my lips to the drink instead of actually drinking. After a while it was too cold and I had an early bus at 7:30, so I thanked the host and quickly sneaked to bed. A liter of water prevented a bad morning afterwards, but made the toilet a busy place during the night.

Shock waves - and a request

The effect of the powerful earthquake next to Taiwan could be felt here too. Apparently Taiwan is a major hub for Internet communication. As a result, Internet cafes' became more empty than ...
Please help poor Shachar complete his sentence, as the lack of sleep made him totally incompetence at this late hour of the day, 21:15.

Arriving to Luang Prabang

After spending almost two weeks in villages and really small towns, arriving to Luang Prabang seemed like arriving to Bangkok again. Many tourists crowding the streets, fancy places to eat, higher prices and even Western pubs. A close by airport makes the city reachable for tourists other than backpackers.

Holiday season

Merry Christmas everyone! Yes, tons of Europeans in the streets and, even worse, at the guest houses, making finding an available room quite a task. On the other hand, when I was in Muang Ngoi, freezing with the rest, one tourist had a package from her mom for Christmas with a piece of a Christmas tree and some sweets, that she shared with the rest of us. It was a nice experience, modest and to the point.
And here comes new year...

Wedding season



Everywhere in Laos everyone seems to be getting married. I guess the cool and dry season is the best time for it. Weddings are usually a two days affair. In Moang Ngoi Nuea and in one of the villages next to it, weddings seem to be a loud affair. They are usually accompanied by a big set of speakers and a really bad singer and stand up comedian(?) everyone tends to ignore. Dancing is very simple, involving mostly hand movement and stepping in a circle. In Muang Ngoi it was nice, as huge amounts of people participated. Many tourists complained of the noise, but once it was gone, the village seemed to be a sadder place at night.

Winter season

They call this time of the year the cool and dry season, because the weather is much more comfortable. Yeah right. Comfortable until you head North and then freeze. Everywhere I went I froze my majestic bum. I didn't sleep too well and skimped on cold showers, that are not that easy on a slightly warm day. At least now in Luang Prabang the weather is more comfortable, and also the temperature seems to go up a bit.
On a more serious note, I knew what I was heading for. Nevertheless, when we went trekking from Luang Nam Tha, the places where we slept at night were not adequately equipped and we barely managed to have a good night sleep. The positive sides are the lack of mosquitoes, the lack of rain and that I can use the same clothes for a week straight cause I don't sweat. On the other hand, maybe I shouldn't have written that.

Baw sai baeng Noo-a - No MSG please!

The pronunciation of asking for new Monosodium Glutamate in your food. The Laos dishes are usually flavor enhanced by the substance, which is not very healthy.

Sandals, flip flops and the toes between

Yet another equipment tip
I took Source Vagabond sandals with me. The problem is that they are quite heavy and take time to dry. Someone back home recommended me to take Crocs with me instead (and I didn't listen). I needed somewhere more practical to wear for showers, so I had to buy flip flops here. You still need sandals for hot regions and for water activities. If you have no problem with the Crocs phenomenon or the Crocs themselves, it seems like the best option for me.

Cellphone again

Yes, even in Laos, the cellphone mania is at peak. After Chinese made, locally assembled motorcycle shops (and food of course) the next common shop is a cell phone shop.

Recommend place to stay and eat in Chiang Mai: Grace house. The staff doesn't speak English too well, the manager tries to do a thousand things at the same time, but there is healthy food around (Whole wheat, oat, etc.) and Indian food, if you really can't live without. The room is not perfect, the food is not the cheapest (nor the most expensive) but I really liked the place and the area.
It is on Soi 9, off Moon Muang road.

Oh my Buddha!

A story from Thailand I didn't write yet. On the 12th of December I went trekking for three days in the Doi (Moutain) Inthanon natural reserve. The advertisements look promising: "Come with us for elephant riding, bamboo rafting and observe the authentic long-neck, big ears, huge teeth and longed nose original hill-tribe in a non-touristic region" (Exaggerated a bit for creating an interesting story telling atmosphere). I was sceptical, but after receiving recommendations from a famous world traveler, I booked the trek.

We were five people on the first day, three on the second and four on the last. Interesting, huh? Each company has several trekking options for each area, which differ by the number of days and activities involved (kayaking, hiking, and more). Therefore they mix and match the participants, sharing one guide as much as possible.

The bottom line is that I really liked the whole thing. The elephant riding was very nice, as I've never done it before. Yes, it does feel like a Disney ride, but the poor elephant is amazing! It is huge! Even a model human specimen like me looked small compared to it (Exaggerated a bit too, just a bit, really).

The trekking itself was very interesting. Walking in the jungle was different from walking in Nepal nature. We had some pretty narrow paths to cross, sometimes blocked by spider webs. We stopped by waterfalls and small ponds to swim in ice cold water. The good thing is that once you get out it is warm. Nights were pretty cold though.

Our guide on the first day was Mr. Shawn. He was fine but took the whole tourist-buying-souvenirs thing a little bit too much. He also made us play a simple card game, resulting in coal painted tourists. The next two days we were accompanied with Mr. Paul. A funny young guy, with an accent I found myself using. The difference from Nepal's guides was obvious: The dude was wearing fashionable jeans, belt and sunglasses for the trek! He was kidding a lot and made the trek more enjoyable. He gave us riddles with sticks on the second night (No coal).

The trip was finished with bamboo rafting. I looked forward to a leisure ride, but there were actually rapids! And we were supposed to pass them with a few pieces of wood strapped together?? It was fun, the raft didn't break and all the soldiers arrived home safely Captain!

The Israeli phenomenon

Yes, it is about time I write something about us.

First of all, I heard more than once from other travellers that it seems that half the country is travelling in Asia. I see it as a good characteristic for us, opposite to people who never leave their country. On the other hand, maybe we are so loud so there is no other choice but to notice us.

On the way from Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong we had a stop for lunch. The question of my origin arrived sooner or later. Israeli tourists usually recognize me because of my looks. Locals who need to sell usually recognize me because it is their job. Other tourists have a problem some time, as my accent usually doesn't have the common Israeli accent to it. So I said I was from Israel. The next thing mentioned was the army, which led some guy to throw something about "killing Palestinians". It was annoying for the first moments, but yes, some people hate us, for many reasons, and not necessarily will listen.

On that evening, I scheduled dinner with Christa. When I arrived she was already sitting for a while with the company of people from our ride to Chiang Khong. After they left, she told me that guy told her that he had so many bad experiences with Israelis that he decided not to talk with them. He asked her how on earth she was able to travel with one. She agreed with him about Israeli. Her exposure to Israelis taught her that we are rude, thinking the whole world belongs to us, therefore behaving very bad to service people (I witnessed this terrible behaviour too and I agree on that). But she said she was still open enough to give people a chance, and not close up as this guy did.