Showing posts with label Cambodia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cambodia. Show all posts

Sunday, February 18, 2007

Battambang

I arrived yesterday to Battambang. There isn't much to see, but what I did was very nice.

I wanted to rest today so I took the local tour quite late, around 16:00, when the sunset is around 18:00. Nevertheless, I went on a motorbike with a driver (moto taxi) and he showed me around. The countryside is really close by and the tour was about traveling through country roads, passing fields and villages, and no other tourist in sight. Some of the roads were more trails than actual roads. All the kids around said hello to me all the time and low five-d me while I was on the motorbike (Why not high five? Are you nuts? That's something reserved for Shaq only!). We stopped by one house, walked through its backyard/field, ate loads of fruits (for a small donation of course...) and some rice wine (again!). Then we took advantage of the hammocks around. According to my guide, other than chilling out, the hammocks are used to sleep outside around April, the hottest month of the year, and for the babies, who can be "shaked" to sleep.

After that we went to see the bamboo train. I thought it was a joke, but it is a real thing, used by the villages to get to and from the city and the country side. The "train" is a wood platform, sitting on two hinges with wheels and a small engine connected to one of the hinges. When two trains come from different sides, the lightest one has to be deconstructed and constructed again on the other side. I didn't take a ride because it was too late for traffic back to the city and I had to chart the whole thing. So I just took photos and played some coconut football with the kids.

The guide introduced me to the term: "Cambodian snow", so now I have a name to what I'm covered for the last five days. If you haven't figured it out yet, it's dust.

Saturday, February 17, 2007

Boat trip from Siem Reap to Battambang

Yes, again on a boat, again on a big, hot river. Haven't I done it before? Won't it be the same?

I took the boat trip according to Lonely Planet's recommendation for a scenic ride and it was so. The floating villages were more or less the same as in Vietnam, but I did find some interesting things. I've seen a floating school and a floating church. There were also interesting fish nets, with a huge bamboo device to put and pull it out of the water. The boat was also more comfortable than previous ones, because the benches had good padding.

Lonely Planet also wrote that the trip might be longer in the dry season due to the low level of water. But the Cambodians know what they are doing, right? Apparently they do (money?). Once we got to the narrow parts of the river the trip became annoyingly slow and the lack of wind didn't help much at the current temperature. The boat driver went slow while another guy used a row to push the boat away from the river's banks, not always with success. After a while we stopped and two pickup cars arrived to pick around forty people, with their luggage. So we were hauled eighteen people in a pickup all the way to Battambang. Not fun!
Happy new lunar year!

Today is the Chinese new lunar year and the Vietnamese new year as well (Called "Tet", same calendar). If I'm not mistaken this year is the year of the pig (mmmm.... pig... Steamed rice with sweet and sour with pork, mmmm....).
Not such a big party around here in Battambang, Cambodia, except for some fireworks and firecrackers exploding for hours. Not too many Chinese here I guess.
Angkor

The biggest attraction in South East Asia and the biggest tourists circus of all. Almost every possible mean of transportation, starting from bicycles to buses, horse carriages, elephants and one big balloon.

Money
Prepare your wallet, for the divine expenses!
40$ for three days pass
Transportation
Day 1 - Tuk tuk for 10$. Overkill, should have taken a moto for 7$ (motorbike taxi).
Day 2 - Moto for 9$. The guy tried to rip me off in the middle, asking for more money for the sunset and for the tour. He didn't get it.
Day 3 - I went for a distant temple, so I had to take a tuk tuk. I took the same one as on the first day for 16$. He was very nice and no money problems. His number is 0987, if you happen to be in Popular guest house.

Food
You'll never go hungry. 2-3$ for a dish in a simple restaurant, a bit expensive. Ice creams, pineapples and cold drinks ("Hello mister, buy cold drink mister?") everywhere.

Watch out! It's hot and humid. Take your time and have lots of breaks.

My story
Day 1 - The general idea of buying a three days ticket was to take it easy. On the first day I managed quite well. I started with Angkor Thom (Saving Angkor wat for the afternoon) and I've seen inside the Bayon (from which I parted with "I'll be back"), the terrace of the elephants, the terrace of the leper king, the Bahpuon and Phimeanakas. After lunch I went to Angkor wat and spent the whole afternoon, including the sunset, over there. Angkor wat is huge and takes time exploring. It has lots of bas-reliefs (stone inscriptions) surrounding it. And I needed the rest.
Day 2 - Baksei Chamkrong, Thommanon, Ta Keo, Ta Prohm, East Mebon, Ta Som, Preah Neak Pean and Preah Khan. Getting the idea? I was done for by the end of that day, totally exhausted . No strength for sunset, not to mention that I really didn't want to give that guy extra money.
Day 3 - I started at noon, after resting from the previous day. I went to a far away temple, Banteay Srei. The bumpy ride made me tired again. It was nice, but not such a big deal. I went back to see Banteay Sarem, Banteay Kdei, which I skipped the day before, the bayon again (I promised!) and Phnom Bakheng with a whole lot of tourists for sunset.

My personal impression - I'm not into old buildings too much but there were a few things that did catch me:
These things survived a thousand years, they should get a credit for that.
Exploring the temples had an inevitable "Indiana Jones" feeling. I just missed the hat and the whip...
Size matters. Some of the structure were amazingly huge. The kings that days knew their job.

Finally, my favorites:
1. The bayon, because the big brother(s) is(are) watching.
2. Angkor Wat, because size matters.
3. Preah Khan, because it looks innocent from outside until you start exploring it and realize how big it is.
Ok ok, Ta Prohm too, because trees coming out of buildings are neat.

Monday, February 12, 2007

Khmer Rouge

From 1975 to 1979, the Khmer Rouge, headed by brother number 1, Pol Pot, tried to create an equal, ignorant, peasant based society. In order to accomplish that they had to get rid of all the people who weren't, such as scholars, teachers and other educated people. For that they created interrogation and torture camps. The survivors of these places and others were brutally killed and buried in mass graves at places who were known after as killing fields. For more info, check here.

Today I went to see Choeung Ek killing fields and Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum to learn about their recent cruel history. It also gave me a little reminder that it's about time I do that concerning my history.

Sunday, February 11, 2007

It's a small world after all

Today was a more relaxed day for me. I stayed in bed for a while, resulting in being less tired today. I tried to get into the royal palace, but it was already closed. So I walked, looking for a place to sit, when I stumbled about a beauty saloon. What can be better than finally getting that manicure done? You're serious!? I got my hair cut and now my total body temperature is lower.

After a while I went to the royal palace when nature called and I went to the men's room. Surprise! I met two hot models waiting for me inside! honest! What actually happened is that I met Zack and his girlfriend Shannon (She wasn't in the men's room, calm down). I have been with them on and off since Laos. Meeting people I know in the men's room usually happens back home, not in different countries around the world.

After the royal palace we went to the see a sunset over the lake from a wooden balcony on one of the dozen guest house spread across the lake. Tomorrow each of us go on their separate ways and all that is left to wonder is when we will meet again.
Cambodia

10 Feb - Crossing to Cambodia, an unpleasant ride, made better with the company of John, Sunna and Alice from Korea.
11 Feb - Slow day, waking up late, walking to royal palace, which was closed, getting a hair cut, moving back to the museum an surprise! I met Zack and Shannon again, in the men's room (Only Zack was there, don't get excited...). We went to the lake (forgot his name) and watched the sunset. Until next time...
12 Feb - Choeung Ek killing fields and Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
13 Feb - Bus to Siem Reap
14-16 Feb - The Angkor experience
17 Feb (Happy new Chinese year) - Boat trip to Battambang
18 Feb - A leisurely day in Battambang and a countryside tour on a motorbike, including the fruit village and the bamboo train.
19 Feb - Crossing to Thailand, a multi-buses adventure.
Yet another Asian country

Yesterday I arrived to Phnom Penh, Cambodia's capital. It is a new country for me, so it different and yet the same. The bad road we took reminded me of Laos, the language written looks like Thai and the traffic reminds that of Vietnam. I believe I'm beginning to have enough of it for now.

I don't have much time left in Asia and thus the will to really get into the culture is not as strong as before. In addition, traveling in Vietnam made me tired and coming back to the heat and humidity doesn't help either. I'll try to take it easy and find a nice spot for a much needed rest, but if I won't, I think I will rush through things here and go to Thailand for some islands resting.

Today I'm looking around the city, in a very slow pace. I looked for a place to sit when I stumbled upon a beauty saloon. I didn't go for a manicure but I finally got my hair cut.

I took a two days tour to arrive to Cambodia. On the first day we saw some Mekong delta life. As it happens most of the time, watching the local lives from the boat was much interesting than the tourist oriented places we stopped where everything is oriented towards your wallet. On the first day we saw a floating market. After stopping for the night at Chau Doc, a Vietnamese town, we went the next day to see a floating village. Then we took a boat to the border, arranged our visas and took another boat and a bus to get to Phnom Penh. It was a long day.